Sardinia for a Penny

by Maxine Bates

In October I found 1p flights with Ryanair from East Midlands Airport to Alghero - plus taxes plus booking fee plus baggage handling charge but still remarkably cheap - and, fancying a little winter sunshine, Travel SIG member Helen B and I booked a long weekend on Sardinia. Having made enquiries I was unable to find anyone who had visited the island and could offer any advice. So I'm writing this article in the hope it helps someone else in future.

Buses in Sardinia are a law unto themselves and didn't appear to keep to any timetables, although the airport bus does link in with flight arrivals which was convenient. Turn right outside the arrivals hall and walk 50 metres to the bus stop. The bus is yellow and the route number is AA. But you'll need to buy a ticket from the machine in the arrivals hall before boarding - and argue with the driver to be allowed on if the machine is broken! The fare is €0.70 compared to €20 in a taxi.

We stayed in Fertilia which is half way between the airport and town of Alghero, 3 km from each. Although walking round the bay along the beach I'd say it was further as it took us nearly 1.5 hours at a fairly fast pace! Opinion is divided how the town got its name. Either from the Latin for seaweed (algae) which invades the shores off-season or from the Arabic for cave (Al Gar) referring to nearby Neptune's Cave.

The old part of Alghero is walled - similar to St Malo in France or Dubrovnik in Croatia - and you can walk upon the ramparts or wander around the cobbled streets lined with restaurants and shops selling clothes, leather goods or coral jewellery. There are very few souvenir shops. Ladies, remember not to wear heels! Or il trenino is a narrated train ride around the town that describes the architecture. Of particular note is the Cathedral of Santa Maria with a bizarre mix of neoclassical facade, Renaissance interior and baroque chapels. Beware, everything closes after lunch and doesn't re-open until dusk.

Boats depart from the port outside the town walls offering full day excursions with snorkelling and lunch or a two hour trip to Neptune's Cave at Capo Caccia. We took the latter. Boat trips varied from €10 to €13 and there's the option to alight for a 30 minute tour of the stalactite and stalagmite caves for an extra €10.

Helen and I had wanted to visit the medieval town of Bosa, situated one hour south of Alghero, but the bus never arrived and there was nowhere to find further information. Luckily, we met an English couple with a hire car who were heading that way and allowed us to tag along. So we all enjoyed an unexpected day out! The coastal road was a lovely drive and, although there were signs for cows and deer, we only spotted pigs by the roadside and vultures circling overhead. We assume these were griffin vultures as this area is home to the largest colony of these rare birds in Italy.

Arriving in Bosa we parked near the River Remo and walked up to Malaspina Castle. Built as a military fortress in the 12th century, only the walls and towers now survive so the entrance fee is a mere €2.50. We were handed a laminated information sheet and were able to enter the Church of Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos in the castle courtyard to view the 14th century frescoes. Whilst in Bosa we saw the picturesque houses, the abandoned leather tanning buildings and enjoyed an al fresco lunch. On the drive back we passed many cyclists and one disabled carriage who must have been mad on the winding roads!

As for dining out... you have to like pizza! Nearly every restaurant is a pizzeria with five or six pages of pizza menu but just one with pasta. And nearly all pasta dishes are seafood ones or just plain tomato or bolognese. The local wine, such as Vermentino, is very drinkable and quite cheap with a 1 litre carafe costing as little as €9. Traditional liqueurs are distilled from either myrtle or lemon. And the Italian ice cream is yummy though it melted fast in the sunshine.

The temperature? It was 25C, warm enough for a day on the beach, which were all deserted apart from local families on Sunday afternoon and the occasional fisherman. It had been 28C the previous week and the forecast was for 22C the following week, so definitely getting to the end of their tourist season. Apart from Alghero, the island 'closes' during winter.

My thoughts? A lovely island for a cheap long weekend break. But probably not worth a return visit unless you are a serious sun worshipper or hire a car to explore further afield. I'm glad I went, though

First published in VISA issue 77 (Feb 2008)