Panama Cruise

by Maxine Bates

I managed to escape the snowy conditions at Christmas by flying to Fort Lauderdale to join a cruise aboard Cunard's Crown Dynasty ship. With only 800 passengers and 333 crew, this was the smallest cruise liner I had experienced but there was still not a shortage of activities. Trivia quizzes, deck games, astrology lectures, line dancing, cookery demonstrations - aptly followed by an aerobics class ! - were on offer during the day. Alternatively, you could just relax by the pool whilst listening to the Island Magic steel band. But, of course, there was plenty to see and do ashore too.

Christmas Day lasted 25 hours due to the time change and we spent it touring the Mexican island of Cozumel. This included the fascinating Mayan ruins at San Gervasio. From 1200 to 1650 AD, this settlement was an important centre for commerce, administration and religion, in addition to being the seat of government for the island. After all this culture, it was time to sip a cocktail or try a Mexican beer at Playa Sol beach and take a dip in the Caribbean Sea. It was a novel way to spend Christmas Day!

We anchored off Grand Cayman on Boxing Day and took tender boats to the capital of Georgetown. Whilst on the island we managed to visit Cayman Turtle Farm, which is the only commercial sea turtle nursery in the world. The turtles range in size from a few ounces to over 600 pounds and visitors are allowed to pick up certain ones.

Then we drove along Seven Mile Beach and past the wedding chapel decorated with pink hearts to Hell. In 1932 a visiting dignitary remarked that the black rock formations "looked like Hell" and the name stuck! Nowadays it is the post office with its special postmark from Hell and the Hades Hideaway gift shop selling suitably tacky (but seemingly compulsory!) souvenirs for tourists. Next stop was Morgan's Harbour to catch a fast catamaran out to Stingray City, where we watched a diver feeding dozens of stingrays from the comfort of an underwater observatory.

One of the highlights of this cruise was sailing through the Panama Canal. It was a unique experience - much more than being raised and lowered by the mighty Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks and cruising through channels. It also meant cruising across the huge Gatun Lake and passing through the Continental Divide with jungle both sides seemingly close enough to touch.

Some interesting facts about the Panama Canal: In 1534 Charles I of Spain ordered the first survey of a proposed canal route through the isthmus of Panama to link the two great oceans. More than three centuries passed before the French began construction, but disease and financial problems defeated them. It was not until 1904 that the Americans resurrected the project, which took ten years to complete at a cost of $387 million. The Canal is currently operated jointly by the United States and Panama, but on 31 December 1999 it will be handed over entirely to the Panamanians.

Fees for sailing through the Panama Canal are charged according to the size of vessel and type of cargo - and payment must be cleared in advance! (It cost Cunard $25,000 before our ship was even allowed through the breakwater at the entrance to the Panama Canal.) Continual repairs and maintenance, installation of high mast lighting at the locks and widening of the narrow eight mile stretch of Gaillard Cut, ensure that the Panama Canal is navigable both day and night all year round.

Our next port of call was Costa Rica, where we journeyed inland along the Inter-American highway (bumpy and not at all like our motorways!) to the capital of San Jose. At the National Theatre a well-known Costa Rican pianist played for us and at the National Museum we were able to learn a little of the country's heritage. After a typical Costa Rican lunch, we headed back to the ship via Sarchi shopping village, where traditional hand painted oxcarts are made.

Our final destination was Acapulco - playground of the rich and famous! Watching the death-defying high cliff divers at La Quebrada is a 'must' whilst in this Mexican resort. Who would actually want to plunge 130 feet into the seething ocean below for a living!? New Acapulco is beautiful with its 23 sandy beaches and green hillsides and, though Old Acapulco has character, there are beggars on every corner.

Our brief stay in the resort showed that Acapulco is a fun place. The main street is lined with plush hotels, a funfair, Seaworld, numerous bars and discos, Hard Rock Cafe and 'fast food' restaurants. Sadly we had to disembark in Acapulco, but I hope to return one day. Another wonderful holiday, but remember: Cruise ships are like Mensa meetings - they are all different.

First published in VISA issue 20 (spring 1996).