A Scilly Weekend

by Maxine Bates

Having never visited the Isles of Scilly, Andy Farrell and I took advantage of the long Easter weekend to explore this lesser known part of the British Isles lying 28 miles south west of the Cornish coast. We opted to take a 30 minute Skybus flight from Newquay (£80) rather than the 2 hour 40 minute crossing on the Scillonian boat from Penzance (£45). It was a novelty having to weigh the passengers as well as our luggage to determine where we would sit on the 8-seater plane! 

Upon arrival on the main island of St Mary's we were quickly transferred to a waiting mini-bus and whisked to our guest house in Hugh Town. A return journey cost £3.50 each. The Isles of Scilly are crime free, so we were not given keys as the front door is never locked. The islanders themselves are friendly and children passing on their cycles called hello. We even passed the Duchess of Gloucester - a regular visitor to the islands - near the Garrison one day.

It's well worth taking the three island boat trip aboard the 'Calypso' costing £15. The trip leaves at 9.30 am from the quay in Hugh Town and returns approx. 5.00 pm. After a choppy crossing and a little seal spotting we arrived on Bryher. We had a quick look at the unusual stained glass window in the church then walked across the island to the Hell Bay Hotel for a cup of hot chocolate. This is definitely the place to stay if you're looking for peace and tranquility! 

Departing from the jetty constructed by 'Challenge Anneka' it was a very short crossing to Tresco where we spent three hours dining at the New Inn and visiting the famous Tresco Abbey Gardens. The entrance cost is £6.50 which we felt was not value for money unless you're seriously interested in plants. We were expecting something much more colourful and better laid out. The figureheads salvaged from local shipwrecks in the 'Valhalla' exhibition were interesting though.

Next stop was St Agnes where we took a half hour stroll around the island past a disused (inland!) lighthouse and across the bay to Gugh which is cut off at high tide. The one pub (The Turks Head) sells real ale, has an extensive menu and is conveniently close to the quay. Handy for a last minute refreshment stop before re-boarding! A return ticket to any island from St Mary's costs around £5.00 and can be purchased from guest houses, 'Tideline' on the main street in Hugh Town or from the boatmen at the quayside.

St Mary's can be easily explored on foot and has secluded beaches and carns, but dodge the golf balls when crossing certain fields! Dining on the island can be an unadventurous experience. Apart from a couple of seafood restaurants or 'posh' hotel dining rooms, it's just pub grub. The Porthcressa Inn was comical as you can eat in or take out, but both are served in the same style, i.e. eating in the pub means you collect your meal in a carrier bag from the bar containing a foil dish or polystyrene tray with plastic cutlery! The upstairs restaurant at the Bishop & Wolf can be recommended. There are only five public houses on St Mary's; four in Hugh Town and one in Old Town (the Lock, Stock & Barrel) which was closed during our stay. Nightlife is almost non-existant unless you enjoy slide shows on the local wildlife in the church hall or the occasional karaoke night in the pub. Take a good book!

On the return flight we had marvellous views of the Isles of Scilly as well as Lands End, Cape Cornwall and St Ives. Visiting the islands is like stepping back in time and I'd recommend them for an unusual weekend break. Only go for longer if you enjoy boating, walking or lots of relaxation!

First published in VISA issue 42 (autumn 2001)