Christmas in Lille

By Elizabeth Johnstone

I had only ever seen Lille out of the Eurostar window en route to Brussels but, in December 2017, we had a great overnight break at this unfairly neglected destination. My train into London runs into Kings Cross Station from where it is a few steps across the road to St Pancras International. The Eurostar train left on time at 10.58 and, less than an hour and a half later, we arrived at our destination.

Lille is the fourth largest urban conglomeration in France, with an ultra- modern Metro system. It operates the “Crit-air” scheme where your car requires a “clean air” sticker. Its charm for the visitor, however, lies in the historic old town. From the Lille Europe Station and the Euralille commercial centre opposite, it is only about 10 minutes walk to “Vieux Lille”. We stayed at the Ibis Styles Lille Grand Place, booking direct with Eurostar for rail tickets and then with Booking.com for accommodation (not forgetting to go in through Topcashback.com!)

The hotel was clean, cosy and convenient for the sights. Our plan was to meet up with a Belgian Mensan friend for whom Lille in France was nearer than Brussels in Belgium. We had a pleasant stroll round, as I took photos of shop displays and building façades. One negative was the number of homeless people and beggars, often with suspiciously drowsy small children lying with them. After a cup of tea, we parted ways and my husband and I braved the Christmas Market. It is enormous, with 80-odd stalls. I’d read mixed reviews online, but I found it cheerful and seasonal.

 We regrouped at the hotel then set out for pre-prandial refreshment and a bite to eat. The plan was to head for the rue de Gand which is effectively the restaurant street. Unfortunately, everyone else in Lille had the same idea. We fought our way into a lively local bar Au Gand'Brinus where the barman gave me advice about speciality brews. Note: do not talk about Belgian beers in Flanders. We then over-optimistically set off down the street for dinner, only to be told “désolé” time and again.

Eventually, our noses pressed against the windowpanes of the Estaminet de Gand, we saw two girls preparing to leave and we pounced. It was a typically small and crowded restaurant featuring local cuisine. My husband had the hearty beef casserole carbonnades flamandes and I had a “welsh” which is a variation of a Welsh rarebit made with industrial quantities of pungent local cheese. A chicory-flavoured crème brûlée rounded off my sweet-toothed husband’s meal. Perfectly pleasant, but next time I would definitely book a restaurant of my choice.

As we walked back to the hotel, it started to rain.  By the next morning,  rain had turned to snow, and it was not too pleasant walking to the station. We intended to spend time in the Euralille shopping centre before crossing the plaza to the Gare Lille Europe.

The jovial security guard at Carrefour was used to travellers like us walking round with half-empty suitcases and “locked” ours shut with a plastic tag which the checkout lady had to open with scissors. French hypermarkets are not normally open on Sundays, except for the month of December, something to bear in mind if your city break involves food shopping. And it must, if you go to France!

The Eurostar was 10 minutes late, but the real problems arose back in London where numerous trains in and out of Kings Cross were cancelled or delayed because of the heavy snow. We got off lightly compared to air travellers and motorists. As a matter of principle, I made a small “delay repay” claim. I hope all readers do so, too! 

Lille was a great destination. I look forward to my Flemish beer on a summer evening in the old town before heading off to my (reserved!) table in the rue de Gand.

First published in VISA 137 (February 2018)

Big Easy Christmas

By Gillian Kennedy

I have wanted to visit New Orleans for a very long time, ever since a friend did a two centre holiday to New Orleans and New York and said she much preferred the Big Easy to the Big Apple. As I love New York I just had to find out for myself.

My first attempt (during our 12 month globetrotting trip) was stymied by Hurricane Katrina making landfall two weeks before we were due to arrive. Several years later I was looking for ideas on where to spend Christmas. I discovered that, as a popular conference venue, hotels and restaurants in New Orleans make special efforts to attract visitors over the Christmas period, when there is no convention business. Being married to a Scotsman, avoiding peak flight and hotel prices over the holiday period was definitely an attractive option!

I booked our flights from Dublin (where we live) with Delta. I was a bit concerned when a friend said that Delta stands for “Doesn’t Ever Leave the Airport” but actually our flights went incredibly smoothly. Flying to the US from Dublin has the added bonus of passing through US customs and immigration at Dublin airport, which is much quicker and a lot less hassle than doing it on arrival in the States. After landing at Atlanta we got to the gate for our New Orleans flight within half an hour, without having to pass through any additional security.

We had booked a lovely B&B called Royal Street Courtyard in the Marigny, close to Frenchmen Street. As we were receiving a warm welcome and detailed guidance on where to go and what to do from our host Philip, we got the first hint of what a wonderful place NOLA (New Orleans Louisiana) is - a brass band passed by, complete of course with the obligatory second line. We had only just arrived and already we were experiencing what has been described as “the quintessential New Orleans art form – a jazz funeral without a body”. Of course we had to go out onto the verandah to watch the second line walking & twirling behind the band (first line) before getting back to the business in hand.

We freshened up and headed out to explore, wandering around a night market on Frenchmen before having a wonderful meal at a place recommended by Philip – Adolfo’s above the Apple Barrel. Here we had the best meal we’d had all year with the Scotsman opting for grouper with ocean sauce while I treated myself to rack of lamb.  Adolfo’s doesn’t take bookings, but it was no hardship to have a drink in the Apple Barrel while waiting for our table. After dinner we headed to the Spotted Cat for some live music before yawning got the better of me and we had an early night.

I had researched in advance what there was to do in NOLA over Christmas, as I was a bit concerned we would run out of things to do, or places would be shut over the holiday period. I needn’t have worried – we stayed for a week and didn’t get to see everything we wanted to see. That gives us a great excuse to go back some time and catch what we missed – places like the Audubon zoo, aquarium, insectarium, the Cabildo (the Louisiana state museum), the Civil War museum, or activities such as taking a trip on a paddle steamer, doing a swamp tour or a Katrina tour. 

The day after we arrived, we were spoiled for choice for Christmassy activities. Having checked out the French market and treated ourselves to coffee and beignets at the Café du Monde, we then went on a tour of private homes in the French quarter. These are open to the public just once a year, to raise money for the “Patio Planters of the Vieux Carré”, which aims to preserve and beautify the French Quarter. It was very special to see around people’s homes, all decked out in their Christmas finery. Here we got our first taste of how friendly people are in New Orleans. I went round the corner in one home to find the Scotsman ensconced on the sofa, chatting to the home owners. I was quickly invited to join them and after a lovely chat, not only were we invited back any time during our stay but we were instructed to say hi to the chatelaine of a plantation house we were visiting on Christmas Eve, as she was a friend of theirs.

This is something we found throughout our stay – whether visitors or locals, people would hear our Irish and Scottish accents and strike up conversations with us. This is not something we’ve come across in any other big city and it made our stay extra special. After the walking tour we went to the cathedral for a concert and again, hearing our accents, people near us turned around in their seats and started chatting to us. We enjoyed a lovely Christmas concert, including hearing the city’s mayor singing O Holy Night. There followed a period of confusion as we were supposed to go carolling in Jackson Square, immediately outside the cathedral. After a while we worked out that the carolling had been brought indoors due to heavy rain so crowds of people were trying to leave the concert and more crowds were trying to get in. Once we worked out what was going on we headed back to our seats and enjoyed joining in with the carol singing.

I had planned to visit the two museums on either side of the cathedral (the Cabildo and the Presbytère) on Christmas Eve. They should have been open as it wasn’t an official holiday in Louisiana but unfortunately they were closed. So we found other ways to occupy ourselves, including watching some excellent street performances, until it was time to join our pre-booked tour to the San Francisco plantation house. We usually avoid coach/large group tours, but we took this one to experience the Christmas Eve bonfires on the levees, said to light the way for Saint Nicholas.

The plantation house itself was a bit of a disappointment, being so close to oil refineries and the like! However, by hanging back until the end, we ended up getting a tour in a group of eight. As requested, we said hello to the chatelaine of the house, from her friends whom we’d met the day before, and were warmly greeted with a hug as a result. After our tour we scoffed down our Christmas meal and then it was to the buses, which received a police escort to the levees. Here we were greeted by the spectacular sight of bonfire after bonfire all along the levees, set really rather close together. Some of the locals seemed to have a death wish – using kerosene to light some of the bonfires and in one case sliding down the side of the levee at great speed and almost into the path of an oncoming car. There was a great festive spirit about and almost every house facing the levees seemed to be having some kind of house party. If we’d had alcohol with us we’d have been quite tempted to blag our way into one of the them. It was certainly a memorable way to spend Christmas Eve.

On Christmas Day itself we started in a more chilled out fashion with bubbles in bubbles – treating ourselves to a bottle of prosecco while relaxing in the hot tub in the courtyard at the back of our guesthouse. We then meandered through the French quarter, to find a surprising number of people out and about, including a lovely Canadian couple we’d met on the tour the day before (we kept bumping into people from our group of 8 time after time over the next few days). We had a lovely lunch at the very colonial feeling Bombay Club, getting into conversation with a nice Aussie couple at the adjacent table. Then we repaired to Pat O’Brien’s (where else?) to sample both a Hurricane and a Cyclone - very nice they were, too. 

We then switched from bubbles to baubles and headed out by tram to see the spectacular light displays of “Celebration in the Oaks” in City Park. This is a holiday lights festival with more than 165,000 visitors annually. The 25 acres of the park are bedecked with all kinds of light displays, many with special themes such as nursery rhymes or bugs and butterflies. Our firm favourite though was an animated and audio version of the Cajun Night before Christmas, complete with Santa on his sleigh being pulled not by reindeer but by alligators. This was a wonderfully festive way to spend Christmas night.

In addition to Christmassy activities we had plenty to see and do in our week in NOLA. We spent a full day at the National World War II museum and still didn’t manage to see everything we wanted to see. I did, however, have the honour of shaking hands with a 95 year old D Day veteran, who had the misfortune of being parachuted into the wrong location but lived to tell the tale.   You may wonder why an American national museum is located in New Orleans at all, when most national museums are in Washington DC. Well, the answer is simple – the D Day landing craft (also known as Higgins boats or LCVPs) were designed by Andrew Higgins of Higgins Industries and built in New Orleans. General Dwight Eisenhower is quoted as saying:

“Andrew Higgins ... is the man who won the war for us. ... If Higgins had not designed and built those LCVPs, we never could have landed over an open beach. The whole strategy of the war would have been different.”

The museum was originally called the D-Day museum and focused initially on the amphibious invasion of Normandy. It was designated the National World War II museum in 2003. When you arrive the atrium contains not only several aircraft suspended from the ceiling and a Higgins boat to inspect but also a Union Pacific Train Car. After paying for your tickets you board the train and are on your way to war!

We found the museum fascinating, with excellent displays on subjects such as Planning for D Day, the D Day beaches, the Home Front and various “D Day Invasions” in the Pacific (as they were described). I really enjoyed listening to some of the audio accounts of people who had lived through the war – from all sides of the conflict. There is a 4D film called Beyond All Boundaries, narrated by Tom Hanks (who else?), which looks at American involvement in the war. The only disappointment was a slightly underwhelming submarine experience, inspired by the last patrol of the USS Tang. 

We found many other things to enjoy in our week in New Orleans. Highlights included a walking tour in the Garden District and another in one of the cemeteries (there are plenty of tours to choose from), the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, an IMAX film about Hurricane Katrina and the Katrina and Mardi Gras exhibitions in the Presbytère museum. We found the information on Katrina very moving and learned a lot about the appalling way many residents were treated who did not have the wherewithal to evacuate. This included information on the notorious Danziger Bridge shooting which was very much in the news when we were there. One woman became quite distressed as she went around the Presbytère exhibition, as she had lived through Katrina and was calling out things like “they treated us like animals”. Very sobering to think how quickly things can descend into chaos.

While there is lots to see and do in New Orleans, some of the best fun is to be had just by wandering around and sampling the wonderful food, drink and music the city has to offer. 

We’ve tried and can recommend the following:

• Food – coffee and beignets in Café du Monde or Café Beignet (we preferred the former, although it is a real tourist trap it has great atmosphere), dinner at Adolfos, gelato or cakes at Sucre, po’boys and muffalettas, gumbo and creole jambalaya, gator bits and (on the posher end of the scale) Reveillon dinners, available at reduced prices in many of the more upmarket restaurants during the holiday season. Reveillon dinners were apparently inspired by the Creole tradition of having a big family meal in the early hours of Christmas morning, after returning from midnight mass. This was revived in the 1990s and moved to paying locations and a more conventional time of day.
• Drink – Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop on Bourbon Street (allegedly the oldest operating bar in the country), Hurricanes and Cyclones in Pat O’Brien’s (check out the duelling piano show if you can) and the Old New Orleans rum distillery, where the high water mark from Katrina flooding is visible
• Music – in particular we liked what we heard at the Apple Barrel, the Spotted Cat, and Café Negril, which was absolutely hopping with a great bluesy band on Christmas Eve. The buskers outside the cathedral were worth a listen and we got to see a great second line for a wedding at the Hotel Monteleone. We loved the music and vibe of Frenchmen, whereas Bourbon Street at night is like Dublin’s Temple Bar x10, with a less enjoyable atmosphere. Most places on Frenchmen don’t make a cover charge, they just pass a bucket round periodically so you can put a few dollars in. Most places (but not the Spotted Cat) allow you to have “to go” cups, so you can take your drink from bar to bar and just move between music venues as and when the mood takes you.
• Wandering around – the beautiful French quarter of course, but also the elegant Garden District, around Frenchmen and into Faubourg Marigny where we stayed, plus Louis Armstrong park and of course the cemeteries. However do take advice on where is safe to walk. Only a few blocks from our guesthouse was considered dangerous and Philip carefully marked up our map to show us where was safe and unsafe. For example he insisted we take the free shuttle to the rum museum at 2815 Frenchmen in the 9th ward, a distance we would normally have walked.

Summing up: I’m so glad I finally got to New Orleans – and Christmas was the perfect time to visit. Not only were there lots of festive extras to enjoy and the weather was mild with just one wet day but you’re not being ripped off by seasonal price increases, due to the gap left by convention business. Yes, it does have a reputation for being dangerous, but that’s probably true of a lot of big US cities – just follow local advice on where is safe to go. We just loved the vibe of the place and the warm welcome we got from everyone we met. I’ll definitely return some day – maybe next time for Mardi Gras!

First published in VISA 128 (August 2016)

A Chinese Cameo

by Anne Rothwell

The slant-eyed Santas looked out of place, beaming at us from either side of the entrance to the Friendship Store. In the tourist haunts, we could have been in any western country, preparing for Christmas. Elsewhere of course, it was a different story. The ordinary populace of Beijing was not beguiled by our overindulgent yuletide.

The city was still unspoiled and strangely innocent. Traffic-wise, it was a relief. As private transport, the bike still ruled with parking lots filled with row upon row of them. The people wearing smog masks were not protecting themselves from traffic fumes, but from the ubiquitous 'Peking throat' which circulates continuously, aggravated by the very cold, dry air.

Eating was fun and cheap. On many street corners were stalls cooking a kind of huge pancake containing egg, spring onions and soy sauce, folded into four and handed to us in a paper holder: tasty and filling. The night-market food stalls were even better. At home, we’d never dream of eating in the street on winter nights, yet here in the north of China, in similar temperatures, we loved it. We walked from one end of the street to the other, tasting all manner of goodies. With portions at 7 or 8 pence each, it didn’t matter if we didn’t like it, and I balked at the skewered songbirds and scorpions. Carrying our own chopsticks, we moved along, throwing any leftovers in the bins provided by each stall.

Learning something about the people and their culture helped to increase our enjoyment of the usual tourist experiences. We watched the early morning Tai-chi in the park, the kite-flying, the older people playing Mah-Jong and Chinese chess or bursting into impromptu song. Their natural exuberance has returned since Mao’s repressive regime vanished and his little red books were relegated to the antique markets. We saw Mao’s embalmed body as everyone filed silently past in his mausoleum in Tianenmen Square and surely it’s only a matter of time before his huge portrait is removed from above the Gate of Heavenly Peace, fronting the Forbidden City.

First published in VISA issue 66 (April 2006)

Land of the Long White Cloud

by Maxine Bates

Aotearoa is the Maori word for their homeland and means 'land of the long white cloud'. My partner Andy and I saw plenty of those during our travels in December 2006/January 2007 as New Zealand experienced their coldest and wettest December for 70 years. We saw some form of rain 24 out of the 28 days of our stay. However, this did not really distract from our enjoyment of their country and culture.

Having arrived in Auckland, we had three days to explore the city before joining a coach tour. In this time there were several highlights. Our first stop was Minus 5. This is situated on the harbour front and is advertised as 'the coolest experience in Auckland'. They are literally right! It's an ice lounge with walls, floor, seats, bar, décor and even your cocktail glass made from ice and yes, you guessed it, the temperature inside the lounge is -5 C! The cost of NZ$27 includes hire of a sheepskin lined coat, two pairs of gloves and fur lined boots as well as a vodka cocktail. A fairly short but unique experience.

We had pre-booked to climb the harbour bridge as I wanted to compare the experience to Sydney BridgeClimb. The cost is NZ$65 per person and, in my opinion, well worth it for the views of the city, as well as the experience of climbing behind-the-scenes on the bridge, from feeling the movement under the road to feeling the wind standing beneath the flags atop the structure. One of our group even stopped en route for a bungy jump! You're clipped onto a handrail all the way during the climb, so it's perfectly safe and not too strenuous, as there are many stops to admire the views and listen to fascinating facts from your guide. Keeping with our theme of heights, we also walked part of the coast-to-coast route up Mount Eden, an extinct volcanic crater, for wonderful views. And booked to dine in the revolving restaurant up Sky Tower which was good value for the standard of service and cuisine and the fact you get a free ride up the tower lift and chance to visit the observation level after dinner. Sky Tower is also home to other restaurants, shops, a casino and the Sky Jump experience. Only the price put me off wanting to do the controlled jump off the top of the tower, 328 metres high. Upon recommendation from British friends we also visited Kelly Tarlton's Underwater World. All we can say is - don't bother if you've ever visited any of the Sea Life Centres in Britain!

We then joined our Connections tour which label themselves as 'adventures for young travellers'. The official age to participate is 18-35 but they let me in! We had considered various tours, but this was nearly half the price due to staying in motels rather than hotels, doing our own porterage, and our hostess and driver preparing evening meals rather than dining in expensive restaurants. We weren't really sure what to expect but would thoroughly recommend Connections, who are part of the larger APT group. It was also more fun than other coach tours I've done and, with 35 guests from 14 nationalities, we made a very interesting mix of new friends.

First 15 of us travelled north to the pretty Bay Of Islands where I took a boat cruise around the bays and through the 'hole in the rock', explored the sleepy town of Russell which was the original capital of New Zealand, and visited the Waitangi Treaty House  known as 'the birthplace of New Zealand'. Then back to Auckland to pick up the rest of our group before continuing to Rotorua, albeit a few hours late due to a misfuelling error by our driver Scott! Thus Andy and I volunteered to help our hostess Mandy prepare dinner so that everyone could eat at a reasonable hour. Late evening was spent socialising in the private hot tubs of our accommodation.

Despite the sulphur smell that lingers all over town, Rotorua is a marvellous place with steam rising from the earth and bubbling pools of mud. We opted to take a tour with a Maori guide who, after giving us the traditional welcome of rubbing noses, took us round in his jeep to show us his village including church, meeting house and back garden before taking us to a secluded natural thermal pool, stopping en route to grab some mud so we could make face packs. We had intended to explore the rest of Rotorua in the afternoon but, due to torrential rain, five of our tour group spent a couple of hours over lunch in Hell's Pizza. Apparently this chain of eateries is a national institution. We certainly found it a fun experience, with pizza toppings named after the seven deadly sins, an apple crumble dessert pizza - yes, we did try it, and very yummy too - and red flickering lights to create ambience. The pizza box converted to a smaller coffin shaped box in which to carry home 'your remains'!

Next day our group visited the Whakarewarewa Maori village where somehow I found myself on stage as part of the cultural show performing the poi dance with pom poms and Andy found himself doing the traditional haka. A 'hangi' feast was included for lunch and, although very tasty, I was a little disappointed not to have actually seen the food cooked in the steam underground. Our next stop was Lake Taupo but, due to continuing torrential rain, we could hardly see the lake. Instead, our driver dropped us at The Warehouse - a large store not too dissimilar to Woolworths in the UK - with instructions to find ourselves fancy dress costumes to wear on Christmas Day!

Then followed a long drive south to the capital Wellington, where we had a few hours to explore the national museum of Te Papa. This large new museum on the harbour front has free admission with exhibitions covering Maori history, art, fashion, transport, science and nature. There are also temporary exhibitions for which a charge is made to enter. That evening our group dined out at one of Speight's ale houses where, like the rest of New Zealand, we found the food to be excellent value for money. Next day we had a quick orientation tour before our rough crossing to south island aboard the Arahura ferry. Whilst nearly all our group, including our hostess who often does this trip, spent the three hour crossing clutching a sick bag or lying on the floor; being a rollercoaster fanatic, I actually enjoyed sitting up front feeling the rolls of the waves and watching the water crashing over the bow! With few people having eaten on the ferry, we had a quick lunch stop in the little town of Picton and luckily stomachs had settled by the time we reached the Prenzel winery for some wine and liqueur tasting.

We then spent two nights near the town of Nelson with opportunity to spend a whole day in Abel Tasman National Park. Luckily, this was a sunny day so we could enjoy a boat trip along the coast, followed by a hike back through the forests and across beaches. We saw tourists practising the popular sport of kayaking, fur seals basking on rocks, viewed pretty turquoise bays and crossed rope bridges over rivers. Back at our lodge, it was BBQ night then we watched several short videos of our group who had done a tandem sky dive that day.

Our next drive was to Christchurch via the whaling town of Kaikoura. Unfortunately the seas were too rough and all the whale watching trips we'd signed up for had to be cancelled. Instead, we took a bracing walk along the coastal path and saw more fur seals, as well as kea birds. With no boating and ample time for lunch, we tried 'fush and chups' - as the Kiwis call our traditional meal! Then onward to Christchurch where, despite it being the Saturday before Christmas, we had no difficulty booking our group in for a meal at the Loaded Hog pub chain. No time to see anything else in this 'English city' but we were to return at the end of the tour so no worries.

After heading south west over Arthur's Pass and past snow-capped mountains of the Southern Alps we came to Franz Josef Glacier where we took the short walk to the terminal face to view the grey-white expanse of ice through drizzle. After Christmas Eve dinner at our accommodation our driver led us on a walk through the nearby forest to see glow-worms in their natural environment. Quite beautiful.

Although Christmas Day was mostly spent on the coach driving from Fox Glacier to the adrenalin mecca of Queenstown, it was fun. After a full English breakfast dressed in various costumes including Santas, angels, reindeers, snowballs and elves - amazing what one can conjure up with only a couple of days notice! - we took a walk around part of Lake Matheson, getting some strange looks from members of the public. We also took a walk to the terminal face of Fox Glacier, where four of our group stayed behind in order to do a heli-hike early the following day and catch up with us later. Unfortunately our tour was in Fox on 25 December when the helicopters were not operating. Onwards with silly games on the coach, a lunch stop at a restaurant that had opened especially for our group, a cracker and handmade chocolate gift for each of us from our driver and hostess, before arriving at the four star Rydges Hotel on the lakeside in Queenstown, where we relaxed in the pool and hot tub whilst Mandy prepared a champagne buffet for us.

Boxing Day was the highlight of my trip for so many reasons; the accommodation, the weather, the scenery and the activities. A few of our group were first to ride the Shotover Jet (website is at www.shotoverjet.com) that day. Whizzing down the Shotover river on a jet boat, missing the canyon walls by inches and experiencing their famous 360 degree spins was just awesome! The official photo pack was expensive at NZ$45 but I couldn't resist as I wanted to treasure those moments. I then decided to take a trip on the TSS Earnslaw steam ship across Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak station. The ship was built the same year as the Titanic but has had a more fruitful existence. There is the option to just cruise the lake or to disembark for a farm tour, watch a sheep shearing demonstration, feed the lambs and take morning tea in the colonial house. I took the latter package lasting three hours for NZ$40. Arriving back early afternoon, there was a little time to explore the town before my next activity. Three of us - a girl from Bulgaria, a guy from the Netherlands and I - were collected and driven up the Remarkables mountain range in order to hang glide down the valley. This was a totally new experience for me, but definitely one I would like to repeat. I was even allowed to steer the glider for some of the flight! Having been reunited with Andy - who had desperately wanted to do the heli-hike - after dinner we took the gondola ride up Bob's Peak for a view over Queenstown and surrounding mountains and lake by night. A truly wonderful end to the day.

The next two days, however, were a little disappointing. Our group drove to Te Anau from where we took an hour ferry crossing to Manapouri then a 30 minute bus ride to board the Fiordland Navigator, our home for the next 24 hours on Doubtful Sound. Unfortunately the spectacular scenery we had been promised was obscured by rain and mist, yet the weather did not keep the biting sandflies at bay. Those who went kayaking, or took the tender boat trip to view flora and fauna, returned soaked to the skin with not much to change into, as we'd had to travel with overnight bags only. On the bright side we got 24 hours to relax and socialise, play cards and boardgames and were well fed. But the majority of our group felt that the time it took to reach Doubtful Sound could have been better spent elsewhere. Perhaps in the summer Fiordland National Park is really pretty. Oh, it was mid summer!

Our last night on tour was spent beside Lake Ohau and we were able to splash in the hot tubs whilst admiring sunset over snow-capped mountains. The following day Andy and I had the opportunity to see this snow from a different angle with a 45 minute scenic flight  over gloriously coloured Lake Tekapo, Murchison Glacier, the Sibald mountain range and Mount Cook village. The cloud was too low for us to fly over Mount Cook itself, so this meant a shorter - but therefore cheaper - flight. Then a brief stop at the Church of the Good Shepherd which, from brochures, I had understood to be more remote before crossing the Canterbury Plains and back to Christchurch. The Connections tour was then at an end, but as everyone was actually staying in the city that evening Andy and I arranged a farewell meal at a Chinese buffet restaurant. This turned out to be an entertaining bargain. For NZ$18 we filled up on standard Chinese fare before experimenting with the Mongolian BBQ that was brought to our tables. However, we left it to our new Oriental friends and the mad Australian girls from our tour to chomp through the baby octopus and other indescribable delicacies! 

Our plans to explore Christchurch the next day did not materialise due to heavy rain and high winds so there was no punting on the River Avon nor cable car rides. Instead we accompanied two friends from our tour to the airport and we all visited the adjacent International Antarctic Centre. This is a great location as you can store luggage at the centre, then simply follow penguin footprints for eight minutes to reach check-in. Christchurch is the jumping off point for most Antarctic expeditions. Besides the excellent interactive exhibitions, there is an aquarium with the rare species of Little Blue penguins, a snowstorm experience where you are kitted out in boots and coats to feel temperatures as low as -25 C, a podium where you can stand on melting ice from both the North and South Poles at the same time, and opportunity to take a Hagglund ride over rough terrain. All in all, a far superior experience to Kelly Tarlton's in Auckland. When the sun appeared we rode on the tram hopping off at the Botanical Gardens and, having picked up our hire car, drove out to the French seaside town of Akaroa on the Bank's Peninsula.

We celebrated New Year's Eve with the one remaining British girl from our tour with a lovely Italian meal overlooking Cathedral Square and strolled out, just before midnight, to listen to The Wizard welcome in the new year. Born in London and having moved to Christchurch via New South Wales, this eccentric public speaker is now famous within New Zealand. There was also a hauntingly beautiful bagpiper who played from atop Christchurch cathedral before a fantastic firework display. The temperature was a chilly 6 C but at least it was dry for the revellers.

On 1 January we drove 90 minutes north to spend the day at the alpine spa resort of Hanmer Springs (the website is at www.hanmersprings.co.nz) where you can laze in mineral pools ranging in temperature from 36 to 42 C. A ticket costing NZ$15 allows entry all day so we were able to visit during the afternoon and again in the evening. Apart from the spa itself, there are a few walking trails and eateries, but not much else in Hanmer. Accommodation is a good standard and cheap though!

We continued our drive northwards, parallel to the TranzCoastal railway  for much of the route back to Picton and thankfully a little calmer return sailing to Wellington. The capital is not nicknamed 'the windy city' for nothing. The location on Cook Strait coupled with the arrangement of buildings means that the wind whips around corners and there's usually a chill in the air. On our second stay in Wellington we took a free one hour guided tour of the Parliament building known as the 'Beehive' as well as catching the Kelburn cable car to the Botanical Gardens. A surprise find at the top was a room featuring video footage about the history of the cable car as well as the current personal cable cars that operate to homes on the cliff tops. Fascinating! In the evening we had arranged to meet the local Mensa group for dinner at the Dockside restaurant overlooking the harbour. They were staging 'alphabet eating meetings' and had reached 'D' hence the choice, though the LocSec did not realise the venue was so posh! A pleasant time was enjoyed by all, including a couple who originated from Stourbridge and a guy who had attended the British Mensa diamond anniversary celebrations in Nottingham and who had immediately recognised Andy and me. What a small Mensa world!

We then ventured north east to the art deco town of Napier. The area was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and completely rebuilt in the style of the day. Guided walks are led twice daily around the town's best architecture (website is at www.artdeconapier.com). We now know about streamline moderne, sunbursts, ziggurats and more! With a Scottish friend having emigrated to the nearby town of Hastings last year, we took the opportunity to meet up for dinner with him and his Kiwi girlfriend.

Our next stop was Lake Taupo which looked totally different in brilliant sunshine. We checked into our lakeside accommodation before driving through Tongariro National Park and catching two ski lifts to the summit of volcanic Mount Ruapehu. Despite the fierce sunshine, you could still play on the snow fields. There were excellent views of what Lord Of The Rings fans will know as 'Mount Doom'. We then tried unsuccessfully to find the visitor centre at the geothermal power station which was listed in our guide book. We did see pipes and steam rising from the earth at the station but no sign of any visitor centre. So onward to Aratiatia Rapids in time for the 4.00 pm opening of the dam. This happens four times daily in summer - at 10.00 am, 12 noon, 2.00 pm and 4.00 pm - when the river goes from being empty to overflowing in just 15 minutes to produce hydro-electricity.

We had decided to spend two nights in a guest house on the Coromandel Peninsula in the far north east of the country. Our route took us through the town of Matamata where we were just in time to catch a Hobbiton film set tour. I should point out that I've not seen any of the Lord Of The Rings films and abandoned The Hobbit after three chapters of the book. But the tour was interesting and the Alexander family farm has the only remaining scenery from the films, the rest having been destroyed as per contract. It is believed that, because the family were so welcoming to the hordes of film crew, they were allowed to keep some of the 'hobbit holes' and now profit from them. Tours cost NZ$50 per person so not that cheap.

Whilst on the Coromandel Peninsula we took on trip on the Driving Creek Railway  This narrow gauge railway was built by potter Barry Brickell in 1974 to transport his clay and is now a top tourist attraction with packed trains travelling the 1.5 miles over bridges, through tunnels and via switchbacks to the viewing platform called the 'Eyefull Tower'. We also visited Hot Water Beach near Hahei where two hours either side of low tide you can hire a shovel for NZ$4 to dig your own hot spa in the sand! Unfortunately it was peak season and a weekend, so one of the few noticeably touristy places we found in New Zealand. The best locations were already bagged; too high up the beach and there was no water and too near the sea the water was just too hot to stand in. Oh well.

Most people had dismissed the town of Hamilton as boring, but to us it was a real find and we spent a happy few hours there en route to our final night accommodation. Hamilton has excellent shopping, including a clothes store called Max where I managed to blag a free bag with my name on! We dined at Nando's chicken restaurant - just like home! - and took a walk along the Waikato River, seeing the Waipadelta paddle steamer in operation and also visited the free museum. We were surprised to find a bronze statue of Richard O'Brien dressed as Riff Raff from the Rocky Horror Show along the main street. Unbeknown to us, Richard had been living in Hamilton when he came up with the idea for this now cult show and the statue is sited on what was the Embassy Theatre, home to the late night double feature picture show.
We had booked to stay at Woodlyn Park near Waitomo Caves. Primarily a cultural show the tranquil park has a few unusual accommodation units. Stay in a converted 1950s plane - cockpit or tail end - or a train or, as we did, in a hobbit hole! The unit consisted of a spacious lounge diner, well equipped kitchen, modern bathroom, double bed as well as four bunk beds and your own private parking space and patio overlooking the countryside. The only sounds were sheep grazing on our roof or the friendly donkey and wild boar in the neighbouring field. Naturally all the windows and doors of our 'hobbit hole' were round! At home this type of unique accommodation would have cost much more than the equivalent of NZ$145 per unit. Woodlyn Park are currently converting an old ship into further accommodation. A unique end to our stay in New Zealand. There was just time for a boat tour through the famous Waitomo Caves next morning. It would have been more amazing had we not already seen glow-worms in the forest. After 28 days we were back at Auckland airport, having had some awesome experiences, and awaiting our next one of crossing the international dateline and repeating the same day!

My overall thoughts on New Zealand? Wet! Seriously, it's a beautiful country with hospitable people, both Maori and modern-day Kiwi. It's currently excellent value for money for the British with an exchange rate of nearly £1 = NZ$3. The roads are somewhat winding, but easy to navigate, and the big cities are not that big. We would have preferred to just roam in our hire car, rather than have a set itinerary, but had been advised to pre-book all accommodation as it was their peak summer period.

Whether you appreciate wonderful scenery, city sights or mostly deserted beaches New Zealand is for you!

First published in VISA issues 72-73 (Apr-Jun 2007)

Elephant Island

by Maxine Bates

It was our first visit and we were impressed with the beauty and diversity of the island and the friendliness of the people. We took a private tour in a mini-bus with our own driver/guide booked through Elephant Island who we can thoroughly recommend.

Arriving at Colombo airport at 8.00am Christmas morning – after dashing through Doha airport at midnight on a tight 40 minute connection! - we were met by Amaranga, our guide, who deposited us at our hotel to relax for the rest of the day. Suffering from jetlag plus coughs and colds, we didn’t actually see much of the capital apart from a huge number of armed guards along the main road from the airport into the city. Although perhaps our decision to laze by the pool rather than explore further afield was a wise one in view of the bombings and assassination of a prominent journalist that followed shortly afterwards. We were the only guests in the hotel restaurant for most of the evening although we found out early the following morning our watches had been half an hour fast having been told the wrong local time upon landing in Colombo! Sri Lanka is one of the few countries with a half hour time difference being 5½ hours ahead of GMT. Christmas dinner was a strange combination of traditional Sri Lankan dishes and spaghetti bolognese. When my partner Andy asked for the pasta without parmesan cheese on top this got lost in translation and he ended up with no meat, a plate of lukewarm pasta and a small dish of tomato ketchup! And there was no alcohol due to it being a public holiday. So we had an early night ready for an early start the following day - earlier for us, having not adjusted our watches correctly…

Our first stop was the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage which was a four hour drive from Colombo along very bumpy roads. Despite being a rollercoaster fan I felt a little queasy at the end of the journey, but luckily conditions did improve. The 69 elephants have mostly been found injured or abandoned in the wild and the orphanage is the world’s largest collection of captive elephants. Raja is a blind elephant, and the only one with tusks, and Sama is a three-legged elephant, a landmine victim. You can pet them (for an obligatory tip to the mahoot) or bottle feed some of the calves (for a small fee) before crossing the road to the river, where you can watch the herd being bathed for free from a viewing platform. This happens twice daily between 10am-12pm and 2pm-4pm. We also visited a small factory and were shown how they turn elephant dung into bookmarks, fridge magnets, calendars, stationery sets etc. taking recycling to the extreme though some of us couldn’t resist making a purchase!

By early afternoon we’d arrived at our accommodation in Dambulla, the Na Mala Eco Rooms. These were a few cabins and when I now hear the word ‘eco’ I translate as ‘basic’! Our basin tap didn’t work, the showers were cold, there were cockroaches and geckos in the rooms, holes in the mosquito nets, and the restaurant was open-sided meaning I ended the day with 84 mossie bites (yes, I counted them!) and Stewart had bat poo on his sleeve! However, saying that, it was a rustic experience and made us appreciate our next hotels even more.

After lunch and a swim in the pool we drove the short distance to the Golden Cave Temple. This is an ancient series of five cave temples containing thousands of Buddhist images and Sinhalese paintings which date back 2,000 years. It is known as Sri Lanka’s artistic masterpiece and is one of five UNESCO World Heritage Sites we visited on our tour. The caves reduce in size from 165 feet long, crammed with more than 100 Buddhas in various poses around the room, to the smallest where only a few people can view the murals at one time. Outside the caves, prayer flags flutter in the trees and wild monkeys wait to snatch your food. It’s quite a climb up stone stairs to the caves – not for the unfit!

Next day included two of my personal highlights. Having already seen elephants today we got chance to ride one. With all four of us sitting in a huge basket on the elephant’s back we set off passing small houses with waving children until we were in the river. During the ride we were accompanied by the mahoot and his friend who waded through elephant dung floating in the river to take photographs with our own cameras. He was rewarded with a good tip! It was huge fun feeding our elephant mangoes en route and, on the return journey, we were allowed to ride on the elephant’s neck where we all got a free bum massage!

Onwards to Polonnaruwa, the capital of medieval Sri Lanka from the 11th to 14th century. The site contains ruins of stupas, temples and monasteries which are still excellently preserved. The Gal Vihare with three huge rock-cut images of the Buddha is one of the world’s great works of Buddhist sculpture. At each building you have to remove shoes and hats, so this got a little wearing as the temperature was 32C, with the ground too hot to walk barefoot.

We were due to visit Sigiriya Rock Fortress the following day but Amaranga decided to take us now. This was a wise move as we were then climbing the 1,200+ steps to the top (and back down again!) before sunset rather than in the heat of the day. Sigiriya is known as the ‘fortress in the sky’ and is a magnificent rock citadel 650 ft high. Beautiful frescoes hidden in a natural cave dating from 470 AD are accessed via a Victorian spiral staircase. The remainder of the climb to the top from the huge stone ‘lion’s paws’ uses metal staircases, one up and one down, and from the very top there are superb views over surrounding forests and distant hills. The newly excavated water gardens at the foot of the rock are some of the earliest from antiquity. Half have been excavated and half have been left in their original state to be excavated when technology is improved.

With us getting ahead with our itinerary the next day became a shopping day. Firstly we visited a wood carving studio and, whilst they produced some lovely furniture and carvings of elephants and Buddhas they were rather expensive. At the Luck Grove herb and spice garden, we were given a tour with explanations of the plants, then treated to a massage using natural ingredients. Mine included a special mixture for mosquito bites! 

After lunch we visited a gem store where we watched a film about the mining of the country’s gems and, after much negotiating, departed with purchases. Lastly we visited a silk shop where Christine bought a gorgeous sari. Having checked into the Thilanka Hotel, which overlooks Kandy Lake, we were treated to a cultural show, including various traditional dances with males and females, drumming, plate spinning and finally fire walking. All very entertaining. 

Kandy is located in the centre of the island and is one of the prettiest towns and the last capital city of the Sri Lankan Kings. It actually reminded me a little of Windermere in the English Lake District! Once again Amaranga had changed our itinerary to show us the best of his country so we were taken to the famous Temple of The Tooth, which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, this morning instead of the previous evening in order to witness a ceremony. The temple contains the revered tooth of the Buddha and this is locked away in a golden casket and rarely seen, except by very important people. At certain times the door to the casket room is opened and you may file past, placing lotus flower offerings on a nearby table. Some of the offerings looked like floral displays in themselves and the table was soon covered in an array of bright colours. The ceremony involved drumming with men in traditional costume. Since the temple was attacked during a visit by Prince Charles in 1998 there is heavy security and men and women are required to pass through separate check points for a body and bag search. Some of our items, like a soft toy sheep and hippo and a platypus for drinking, took some explaining! We then visited three more temples in the Kandy area. The one of note is a combined Buddhist and Hindu temple. Very strange since Buddhists work on philosophy and don’t worship a God and the Hindu religion worship hundreds of Gods!

In the afternoon we were left to wander around the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens at our leisure. The gardens are said to be one of the finest in the East and Lord Mountbatten’s South East Asia Command Headquarters were located here during World War II. Although there were not too many flowers – possibly due to the heat - we did see the orchid house, huge bamboo, palm tree avenues, fruit bats in the trees, and commemorative trees planted by various royalty including one by Princess Anne.

Next day we took one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya in the hill country. Rather than ride squashed into the carriages and sometimes hanging out of the doors, we had four of the 24 reserved seats in the observation car. As we climbed to the highest elevation town on the island, we passed through tea plantations. Nuwara Eliya is the original hill station of the British tea planters who came to Ceylon. The town has a colonial feel with half timbered houses, the Hill Club, Grand Hotel, the oldest golf course in Asia and even a race course. We took an optional trip to the Pedro tea plantation where we were the only tourists, so had a cup of the best quality tea called Lover’s Leap followed by a private tour of the factory. We learned that it takes just 24 hours from picking to packing, that the tea pickers work eight hours a day getting paid for a minimum quantity of leaves with a bonus for collecting more, and that the final product is auctioned.

Being the highest town on the island the temperature drops drastically at night so we awoke at 6.00 am to find frost on car windows! Our early start, armed with a packed breakfast provided by the hotel, was to drive an hour to Horton Plains Cloud Forest in order to do the three hour circular walk, before it was too hot and too crowded. We saw very few other tourists, only a few Sri Lankan families out for the day. We were wearing hiking boots and backpacks; they were wearing flip flops and carrying parasols! The central highlands have a highly dissected terrain consisting of a unique arrangement of plateaus, ridges, escarpments, basins and valleys. Sri Lanka's highest mountains - Pidurutalagala (8,281 feet), Kirigalpotta (7,858 feet) and Adam’s Peak (7,559 feet) - are found in this area. Our walk took us to World’s End where there is a platform with no railings yet a 4,000 feet drop to the valley floor below - not for vertigo sufferers! We also saw Baker’s Falls where we welcomed the cooling spray from this waterfall. 

The afternoon was spent descending to Yala on the south coast via a series of winding roads and hairpin bends. We arrived at our hotel on New Year’s Eve and saw on the TV in the lobby that Sydney was already celebrating with their famous firework display. Unfortunately Sri Lankans celebrate their New Year on 13th April and, due to low occupancy at the hotel, the gala dinner that we had been promised was cancelled. However, we enjoyed a feast of western and Sri Lankan dishes, drank a few cocktails, then saw in the New Year in room 101 (!) whilst sipping the local arrack drink and watching the President giving a speech on TV, although we didn’t understand a word, as it was in Sinhalese!

On New Year’s Day we were going on safari in Yala National Park and were given the option of leaving at 5.30 am or 2.30 pm. Having checked that we would see the same animals, guess which time we chose!? So we had a lie-in, enjoyed a sumptuous Sri Lankan breakfast – including curry, rice and a fresh fruit platter – and a couple of hours with the hotel pool to ourselves before our next adventure. Yala National Park is well recognised as one of the best parks in the world to observe leopards, although we only managed to spot one. The park covers an area of over 100,000 hectares and contains jungle, beaches, freshwater lakes, rivers and scrubland. In a few hours we managed to spot wild elephants, crocodiles, water buffalo, deer, a mongoose, peacocks, painted storks and a variety of other birds. We travelled in a soft-topped jeep with a guide pointing out the flora and fauna. We stopped near the beach to see the memorial to the 47 tsunami victims (German and Japanese tourists and locals) who died in the park on 26 December 2004. Our guide Amaranga was lucky and had been at the park 30 minutes before the wave struck but was well inland by the time the disaster occurred. We were told the animals sensed danger and ran inland, so none died (although reports on the internet say otherwise).

We then moved on to Galle, the capital of the southern province, a city with a colourful history and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. En route we saw the famous stilt fishermen near Ahangama on the south coast, although those nearest the beach now pose for tourists, then hop off their perch and come demanding tips for photographing them! Though there are fishermen further out to sea who are earning a living by actually fishing. Although first established by the Portuguese, the magnificent 300 year old Dutch fort and lighthouse are the most popular attractions in Galle.

In the soaring temperatures we managed a saunter along the bastions and a cooling visit to the Dutch Reformed Church before returning to our beach hotel 6km away in Unawatuna. During our sunset swim, we heard firecrackers being let off a little further down the beach as locals celebrated the news that prominent members of the Tamil Tigers had been captured and Elephant Pass, a strategic point in the ongoing fighting, had been taken by the government. As our return flight didn’t depart until evening our final day was spent taking a boat trip at the Hikkaduwa Coral Gardens, which are a coral formation out at sea. Having all our valuables with us in our hand luggage on the tiny boat we – as well as the guys steering – were rather alarmed when a large wave approached and we didn’t manage to turn quickly enough and very nearly capsized! Despite the coral not being great and nearly going for an involuntary swim, we still found ourselves automatically giving a tip! 

We enjoyed a visit to the Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery where we were able to pick up one day old, two day old and three day old turtles, all kept in separate tanks. Visitors can also see an albino turtle and the sandy area where rescued eggs are buried and labelled ready for hatching. We made several purchases in the shop with our remaining rupees and, although the goods were not particularly cheap, the proceeds all go to saving the turtles.

We were surprised at how few tourists we met on our tour. It appears three quarters of visitors to the island base themselves at a beach resort and don’t explore which is a great shame as there is so much to see and do. Sri Lanka has not yet fully recovered from the tsunami and the current economic crisis is not helping their tourist industry. So everywhere we went, we were made very welcome. My only negative comment about the country is the food. There was rice and curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner and, although I enjoy curry, the Sri Lankan variety was far too spicy. Even the tomato soup that I tried one day as a safe option was really spicy! But we had a great time and lots of happy memories.


First published in VISA 84 (Apr 2009)

Marrakech Expressed

by Helen Matthews

The inflatable Santas struck a slightly discordant note among the monkey-tamers, snake charmers and henna-painters of the Djemaa el Fna. This 'square' is described in one of my guidebooks as the heart of traditional Marrakech, and certainly it is the place to which tourists endlessly return to get their bearings. There is always plenty of local colour. Admittedly it rather resembles a car park in which a rather half-hearted car boot sale-cum-fete is taking place by day, but it comes alive particularly at night, when the numbers of performers increases, and food stalls selling all sorts of Moroccan delicacies are set up. We were at something of a disadvantage on our first visit to the Djemma el Fna, as a constant supply of small change is needed to reward the entertainers or to purchase orange juice from one of the many stalls. Having sufficient small change was to be a constant problem during our trip, particularly as tipping is widespread and expected. Banks and hotels (there is a fixed exchange rate wherever money is changed) tend to issue only larger denomination notes (100 or 200 dirhams) and as prices are quite low, it can be difficult to get change for, say, two tickets to a museum costing 15 dirhams each (just under £1).

The holiday had been booked in an attempt to escape from Christmas, which so far had seemed to be succeeding. I was enjoying a café au lait at one of the many cafes adjoining the square when I noticed the aforementioned Santas being carried past. However, there were only two of them, and so there seemed no need for panic yet. I finished my coffee and set out to explore the medina.

 Marrakech is very much a city of two halves. The old town, or medina, situated within the red city walls, is characterised by narrow streets, traditional buildings, and endless hassle from locals who want to act as guides or show you to their brother/cousin/uncle's shop "just to look, not to buy". In contrast, Gueliz, the new town, has wide tree-lined avenues, gardens and modern hotels. The two are linked by the Avenue Mohammed V, which runs from Gueliz down to the Kotoubia Mosque in the old town. My guidebook describes this as Marrakech's answer to the Eiffel Tower, which it is not, but it is certainly a useful landmark, or so I thought. The three golden balls on the top of the minaret were supposedly made from gold donated by a sultan's wife who melted down her jewellery as a penance for eating three grapes during Ramadan. It is a double mosque, as the first one built did not quite face in the direction of Mecca and so they built a second one to correct this error.

Wandering through the medina, we came to the Kasbah mosque, and realised that the Kotoubia minaret is not quite such a striking landmark as we had thought - the minaret of the Kasbah mosque is superficially similar in appearance from a distance, though not so tall. Not far from here is the El Badi Palace. Built in the sixteenth century, it is now a ruin, with all the marble and tiling gone, but the thick walls remain, providing a useful nesting site for storks. The contrast between the noise in the streets outside, and the calm of the courtyard within is striking.

We found a more intact version of a Moroccan palace, though dating from the nineteenth century, at the Dar Si Said Museum of Moroccan Arts. There are a few interesting exhibits, including a primitive wooden ancestor of the ferris wheel, but the building itself is beautiful, especially the reception room on the upper floor. The custodian was very assiduous and helpful in showing us round, and we were very happy to give him the customary tip at the end of our visit. The nearby Bahia Palace is built in the same style of decorative tiles and cool courtyards, and is home to a large number of cats.
Venturing to the north of the Djemaa el Fna, we eventually found the Marrakech Museum, housed in yet another palace. Exhibits included a display of traditional musical instruments and a temporary exhibition of modern photography. Also in the northern medina is the Medersa Ben Yousef, the old 'university'. The building, dating from the sixteenth century is also in the traditional style, but instead of palatial chambers, the courtyard is surrounded by cells where students used to study, three to a cell. The route to the museum and the Medersa lies through the souqs. These display a fascinating range of leather, metalwork and spices, amongst other things, but anyone wishing merely to pass through without buying should look straight ahead and keep going, as displaying momentary interest can initiate a bargaining ritual in which protestations of "just looking" are taken as tactics rather than the literal truth. Actually capitulating and buying something is also hazardous, as it can lead to an invitation to see the stallholder's brother's house - a beautiful house, admittedly, but full of items for sale.

One of the highlights of the new town, Gueliz, is the Majorelle garden. Created by the artist Jacques Majorelle in the first half of the twentieth century, the garden has now been bought and restored by Yves Saint Laurent. The garden is not large, but contains botanical specimens and cacti, wonderfully set off by the deep blue paint of the architecture. A pavilion in the centre of the garden contains a small exhibition of Islamic art. A very different garden is the Menara, adjacent to the airport, which consists of a large olive grove with a huge pool in the centre, overlooked by a pavilion. This pavilion also had a custodian who was very happy to show us around in exchange for the usual acknowledgement.

We took a couple of trips out of Marrakech during our stay. The first was to Essaouria, on the Atlantic coast. Our journey took us through different types of terrain, from the olive and orange groves on the outskirts of Marrakech, through an area of infertile, stony soil, to plantations of argan trees, a distant relative of the olive. This area is home to goats that climb trees (allegedly). A goat may well have climbed an argan tree in the past in order to escape from some perceived threat, but the tree-climbing goats are now so famous, they have no need to go to the effort of actually climbing. I am not sure who is the more exploited - the goats, who are unceremoniously thrust up into the trees by the goatherds, or the tourists, who present a captive market for the lucrative photo-opportunities as their tour buses halt by the roadside. I do not think that the goats suffer as a result of the practice. They just looked very bored. Argan trees eventually gave way to a 'forest' of Thuja trees, whose wood is used for carving by craftsmen in the town.

We strolled through the medina of Essaouria and were struck by the relative lack of hassle we experienced. It was even possible to go into a shop, look around and leave without buying anything, something that is virtually impossible in Marrakech. Orson Welles came to Essaouria to film Othello. We saw a small park that commemorates this fact, and went up to one of the gun batteries that were used in the film. Nowadays, Essaouria is particularly popular with surfers, because of the perpetual wind that blows off the Atlantic, but it was not particularly strong on the day we visited. Just outside the wall of the medina, I noticed some more, but smaller, inflatable Santas, but there still seemed no need for alarm.

Our other trip was into the Atlas mountains, to the Ourika valley. We went on Christmas Eve, which was a Monday, the day of the weekly Berber souk. Approaching the souk, we first noticed the parking provision - a field for the donkeys. Parking for four-wheeled transport was in shorter supply, as there were a number of tourist minibuses and cars. On leaving, our driver had great difficulty in reversing among the vehicles, donkeys and sheep. As well as providing a weekly retail opportunity, the souk includes refreshment stalls, necessary because of the long journey to and from the villages in the mountains, and Berber barbers. From the goods on sale and the majority of those attending, it was an authentic Berber market, but it is also popular with tourists, and some of the stall holders were keen to be photographed in exchange for dirhams. 

Later, driving through the valley, we noticed that the Berber villages are built to blend into the mountainside on which they are situated. The guide told us that this was for camouflage purposes, but it seems just as likely that it is simply the result of using local materials. We also saw a number of ruined houses. In recent years, people from the city of Marrakech had been buying land in the valley to build summer residences, but the land they had bought was in the river valley, unlike the Berber villages, which clung to the sides of the mountains. A flood in 1995 washed most of these houses away, and of those that remained, many were rather optimistically offered for sale.

After a traditional lunch accompanied by Berber musicians we were taken round a traditional Berber house. It used to be the case that no visitors were allowed inside a Berber house until the man of the house came home, and that if he arrived home and found visitors inside he would kill them, or so we were told, but times have changed. I felt rather uncomfortable about looking around someone's home in this way, but our guide insisted that the family had decided to open their house to visitors in order to supplement the declining income from their milling business following the death of the head of the family. The house had a central courtyard, on one side of which and open to the courtyard, was the kitchen, where couscous would slowly cook all day over the fire. On the other side of the courtyard was a narrow rectangular room with thick stone walls, that served as the larder/refrigerator. I cannot say how effective this is in summer, but it certainly kept food cool in December and I have felt the tomatoes to prove it.

Returning to the hotel after the Atlas mountain trip, we were perturbed to discover that two slices of what must have been the world's largest yule log had been left in our room. Downstairs in the dining room, the blackboard proudly announced that the day's special was roast turkey, a delicacy that we managed to resist. Until then the nearest we had come to Christmas fayre was the traditional Moroccan pastilla, a filo pie filled with pigeon meat and spices and topped with sugar and cinnamon that was perhaps a little like the original mince pies. Oh well, at least the inflatable Santas had not established a bridgehead in reception.

First published in VISA issue 45 (spring 2002)

Caribbean Christmas Cruise

By Maxine Bates

This was my 8th cruise - having previously sailed on Cunard QE2, Cunard Crown Dynasty, P&O Canberra, Costa Romantica, Festival Bolero, Airtours Sundream and Thomson Emerald – and I think one of the best. Though this was probably due to the fact that this time I travelled with five wonderful Mensan friends. Ocean Village was formerly Arcadia, but rebranded in May 2003 as an informal cruise experience aimed at the younger market. All the staff from the chief officers to the maintenance men were friendly, always smiling, and went out of their way to be helpful. The restaurants and public lounges were spotless with lovely décor. Our cabin was spacious and clean with every facility we could want – TV, telephone, hairdryer, fridge, shower gel, etc. Blue and white striped beach towels were provided and replaced each day and you could take these out on deck or ashore with you. An excellent idea I’ve not seen on other cruises! We had an inside cabin yet outside cabins were almost identical. Both cabins had curtains, the only difference being inside ones had a wall behind the curtain whereas outside ones had a picture window! This nice idea certainly made inside cabins feel less claustrophobic.

The transfers

Upon arrival at Barbados airport a coach was waiting on the tarmac and we were transferred directly from our Thomas Cook flight to Ocean Village and did not have to clear customs or baggage reclaim. You need to put your suitcases outside your cabin before 11.00 pm the night prior to disembarkation and keep anything required for the next day in your hand luggage, but this is usual practise on cruises. On this cruise we had to clear immigration aboard ship on disembarkation day at a specified time. Our slot was 7.15 am! This did mean, however, that passengers could be transferred directly to the departure lounge at Barbados airport.

The food

Being an informal cruise meant there were no set meal times or table plans. Instead passengers can enjoy a 24 hour buffet which is good – but not for your waistline! The food in both the Plantation and Waterfront restaurants was always hot and well presented. Though self-service there were hardly ever any queues and trays and empty plates were removed quickly from your table by the friendly waiting staff. Breakfast was similar in both restaurants, though there was a larger choice in the Waterfront including waffles, smoothies, etc. During the day the Waterfront was closed and the Plantation offered salads, burgers, hot dogs, chips, gateaux, as well as daily specialities such as lasagne, fish pie and much more. The small La Luna restaurant on deck offered jacket potatoes and pizza cooked to order with waiter service at lunchtimes. In the evening the Plantations restaurant served Asian themed food with Thai, Indian, Chinese, Indonesian, etc, on various nights. The Waterfront restaurant also had themed evenings such as Mexican, French, Italian, American and British pub. Though good the menus weren’t really what we were expecting. For example, there was no pizza or pasta on the Italian night and on the British pub night there was cabbage and bacon soup! I’ve never seen that on offer in a British pub! We never felt the need to pay a supplement to dine and be waited on in La Luna or The Bistro (with menus devised by celebrity chef James Martin who occasionally cooks on the ship) at night as the other two restaurants were excellent. There were occasional BBQs on deck too. There was a turkey BBQ on Boxing Day! In fact, one evening I had my starter in the Waterfront, main course on deck and dessert in the Plantation!

The drinks

Drinks were reasonably priced at 70p for a regular or £1.50 for a large (pint) soft drink. Cocktails were £2.95 with the "cocktail of the day" at only £2.65. The ship has a variety of bars including the swim up Splash Bar in the pool, Connexions Bar with live entertainment, Charlie’s Bar with background piano music and the Bayside Club with a disco. You are allowed to bring non-alcoholic drinks onto the ship to store in the fridge in your cabin, but alcoholic purchases are confiscated until the evening before disembarkation. However, bag searches were sometimes poor and I managed to walk straight on in Barbados armed with duty free shopping! Also we found that at tender ports there were usually no bag searches so not to delay proceedings.

The entertainment

With the odd exception the quality of entertainment was far higher than other cruises I’ve been on. On our particular cruise we saw Robbie Williams and Rod Stewart tribute acts which were very good. On Christmas Day the original Three Degrees performed in the Marquee Theatre and everyone was soon up dancing. (We actually bumped into two of them in the lift the following day and they seemed very genuine and friendly.) The "Diva Experience" was created by the same mastermind as the "Sky Show" at the Millennium Dome and comes in four parts – Passion, Heaven, Moon and Earth – on four different nights. It’s supposed to portray a story, but I’m afraid I soon lost the plot! The shows involved singing, dancing, acrobatics, comedy, juggling, curtain swinging (or whatever it’s actually called!) and even flame throwing. The "Moon Show" is the highlight performed out on deck on a specially built steel arch over the pool and is quite amazing. The captain has to slow the ship down for the safety of the performers.

Bonaire
One of the Netherlands Antilles "ABC" islands – Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao. More like Aruba than Curacao, Bonaire is quite barren with divi divi trees shaped by the trade winds. We took the half day "Island Journey" tour on what looked like a typical yellow American school bus visiting the flamingo sanctuary, salt flats, slave huts and traditional island housing with a very informative guide. In the afternoon we snorkelled off a tiny beach right next to the ship and saw some very colourful fish. I think that, left to your own devices, you would get bored quickly in the very small capital, Kralendijk. Some of the best diving in the world can be found in Bonaire, so I’d recommend taking a dive excursion if you’re a diver.

Isla Margarita

Lying off the coast of Venezuela, Isla Margarita is classed as South America so I could “tick off” my last continent as I’d already visited Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and Australasia. (I’m not including Antarctica as I never want to go there – far too cold!) We had pre-booked the “Rainforest Trek” excursion and were advised by letter once on the ship that it had been re-classed as strenuous rather than moderate walking. They weren’t wrong! In temperatures of 34 C we were thrown ropes by local lads and had to shin up large rocks whilst being pushed from behind. Not my idea of fun at all. I spent most of the walk looking where I was going – especially after the guide had shown us a wild tarantula spider! – so couldn’t appreciate the scenery. The trek usually takes 4 hours, but our group managed it in 2½ hours. I think everyone was desperate to get back to an air-conditioned mini-bus! I didn’t fancy any of the snorkelling or shopping excursions and the rainforest trek seemed the only other option. So in one way I’m glad I did it and saw some of the island, but I wouldn’t do it again!

St Lucia

This was one of our favourite islands, probably due to the excellent full day "Land and Sea Adventure" excursion. It started with a coach journey to the famous "Pitons" and after a photo stop to admire the majestic mountains from afar we then drove between Gros Piton and Petit Piton to smell the volcanic sulphur and see bubbling pools of mud. Next we wandered through the Botanical Gardens with our guide pointing out the various flora and demonstrating how the local fruits are grown and used until we reached Diamond Falls. Lunch was included and eaten at the Still Plantation where we also saw a 100 year old tortoise roaming in the garden. It was enjoyable, but we had been spoilt by the quality of food on the ship so this didn’t really compare. In the afternoon we sailed back from the town of Soufriere aboard the Endless Summer catamaran with complimentary rum punch and soft drinks. En route we stopped off for a swim and then to view the posh yachts anchored in Marigot Bay where Dr Doolittle was filmed. Sailing right past Ocean Village to dock with music blaring and our tour guides leading the dancing made a lovely end to the day.

Dominica

We figured we could see the well-known sights on our own, so five of us hired a mini-bus for a four hour trip to the Emerald Pool and Trafalgar Falls. This worked out - after some negotiating - at US$ 16.00 per person. Our driver/guide, Curt, was happy to wait as long as necessary at each place we stopped. We arrived at the Emerald Pool around midday when there were no other tourists present, so we got a private swim in the crystal clear waters under a 40 ft waterfall. One of the holiday highlights! After a drive round hairpin bends we reached Trafalgar Falls; 200 ft twin waterfalls in the Roseau Valley. A short walk brings you to a viewing platform and we persuaded Curt to take us down nearer the falls to look at the bubbling water. You can also swim here, but it isn’t advisable without a qualified guide as there have been accidents.

Grenada

Having already visited Grenada twice before and been to Grand Etang Lake, this time we got a taxi to Goyave to see the nutmeg processing station. Our driver thought this a strange place to visit and wanted to take us elsewhere instead. When we arrived in Goyave we discovered why. The guided tour cost US$ 1.00 per person and lasted about 10 minutes! The town itself is quite poor and ramshackle and locals are employed to rake the nutmegs in large trays, which would definitely be an automated process in the UK. So we were soon heading back to the capital, St George’s, but at least saw some pleasant scenery en route along the coast. We were dropped at Grand Anse beach which is one of the best in the Caribbean and is where, allegedly, Ursula Andress emerged from the sea in the film of Dr No. From the beach we could see Ocean Village anchored out at sea as this was a tender port. It cost US$ 2.00 each for a ride back to the port in a local mini-bus – so squashed that the young boy who collected payment actually sat on my knee!

Barbados

It’s Tuesday – must be Barbados! Having booked both the "Sugar & Spice" and "Calypsos & Coconuts" itineraries meant we visited Barbados at the start, in the middle and at the end of our holiday. On our first day before setting sail we had time to walk into the capital, Bridgetown, to see Nelson’s Column (a miniature replica of the one in Trafalgar Square) and Independence Arch. Taxis are plentiful at the dock, but it’s only a 15-20 minute walk. The cruise terminal is great for duty free shopping. Be sure to do some sampling in the Rum Cake Shop where the staff are very friendly and the cakes come in various sizes and flavours (original, coffee, lemon or chocolate).

The following week, whilst some passengers were disembarking and others embarking, we took a "Sail, Snorkel & Swim With Turtles" trip which was excellent. A catamaran met us next to Ocean Village and although it was new and could carry 70 passengers they only took 35 of us so there was plenty of space to sit inside, on deck or on the nets between the hulls. There was also another free bar! We were one of the first boats to arrive at the place with the Hawksbill turtles. Snorkelling equipment and instruction were provided. Each swimmer had to wear a red lifejacket, either inflated or not, so that our group could be identified when others arrived and nobody was left behind. There was also chance to snorkel out to a coral reef or laze on the beach. Then it was a pleasant sail back along the coastline to Bridgetown. That afternoon we made our own way to Harrison’s Caves. Do haggle with taxi drivers because we got our fare reduced from US$ 60.00 to US$ 40.00 within a few moments! This included waiting time whilst we watched a short film and took the narrated train ride down into the caves, which are full of stalactites, stalagmites and crystal clear pools.

Tortola
As we were here on Christmas Day we thought it better to book an excursion, not knowing whether taxis would be operating. We opted for "Sightsee and Swim" which was a drive around Tortola with beautiful views of the other British Virgin Islands. Unfortunately the Skyworld observatory, the highest point on the island and usually part of the tour, was closed because it was Christmas. This did enable us to spend an extra half hour on the wonderful Cane Garden Bay beach though, where we were given vouchers for a free rum punch. A lovely way to spend Christmas Day!

St Maarten

The island is half Dutch, half French and is basically a duty-free shopping island. Approx. 20 minutes walk from the quayside brings you to the Dutch capital of Philipsburg. There are plenty of taxis and mini-buses available for anyone not wanting to walk. The main street is lined with shops selling souvenirs, jewellery and electrical goods intermingled with McDonalds and a few bars. Be sure to try the local guavaberry liqueur! We walked back a couple of streets to see the salt pond but it wasn’t really worth it. There’s a nice beach in Philipsburg too.

St Kitts

Two of our party did the "Mount Liamuiga Volcano Hike" whilst four of us did the more leisurely "St Kitts Railway" excursion. This is the old sugar plantation railway that has been bought by an American and turned into a top tourist attraction. There are five carriages with an open upper deck and a lower enclosed deck and each passenger is allocated a seat on each deck. Upstairs there are padded seat benches along each side of the train and a serving area at the end where our hostess made banana daiquiris or rum punch which is all complimentary throughout the two hour journey. Downstairs there are wicker seats and tables as well as a very clean toilet with flowers, hand wash and gilded taps. The journey is narrated as you pass through fields of sugar cane so close you can touch it, along the coastline with its high waves, through villages where the local children come out to wave and around the base of Mount Liamuiga obscured in mist. At the end of the line you transfer into mini-buses for the return drive back to the ship with chance to view Brimstone Hill Fortress en route. The National Museum of St Kitts in the capital, Basseterre, costs only US$ 1.00 entrance and is a small but interesting museum with information about slavery, local industry and culture.

Antigua

Having spotted an article in one of the British national newspapers a few months prior to travel, we had contacted Graham Lemon at Island Speedboats and booked him to take us out on his speedboat. (See www.island-speedboats.com) Graham met us next to where Ocean Village docked and took us around the north of Antigua past Sandals resort to Prickly Pear Island where we could snorkel, taking care to avoid the seasonal jellyfish. The ride was both informative and much fun, especially for those of us sitting at the front and catching all the salty waves. It felt like being on a rollercoaster whilst someone was throwing buckets of water at us! Graham also provided a cool box full of rum punch, beer and soft drinks. The cost for a four hour trip was US$ 225.00, but divided by up to six (the maximum number of passengers the speedboat can take) this actually works out cheaper than the official Ocean Village excursion round the island on a RIB (rigid inflatable boat). Plus it’s more exclusive and more fun!

Mayreau

The small island of Mayreau is only one mile square and is part of the Grenadines. This is a tender port, but the Ocean Village crew take a bar and BBQ over to the beach and you are able to use your on-board account card to make purchases. We had booked the afternoon "Catamaran To Tobago Cays" tour but unfortunately it rained heavily. After an hour sailing we anchored off a deserted island and were given the opportunity to snorkel (with equipment provided) to the beach. I imagine with gorgeous weather this is a perfect place to spend on hour or so. But with rain like stair rods we didn’t even want to get off the catamaran and sat huddled in our warm dry towels instead! Typically the sun came out as we left. The sail back amongst the Grenadines and past exclusive Palm Island was lovely.

First published in VISA issue 56 (June 2004)