An Irish Jaunt

by Maxine Bates

Despite having suffered a 90 minute delay at Holyhead due to adverse weather conditions in the Irish Sea, my friend Helen and I arrived in Dun Laoghaire eager to begin our whistle stop tour of southern Ireland. We were travelling on a Stena `go as you please' holiday, but had booked our first two nights at a hotel on Talbot Street in Dublin. This proved a good choice as all the major tourist attractions were within easy walking distance.

Whilst in the city we took an informative tour of Dublin Castle, which included the state apartments, inauguration room of the President and old castle ruins. We walked along the River Liffey, crossing Halfpenny Bridge (so called because that was once the toll) and poking our noses into the Clarence Hotel owned by U2 (though you would never have guessed it had rock star connections) en route to a `liquid lunch' at St James' Gate Brewery. Better known as the Guinness Brewery, its popularity has meant that tours are no longer available of the production site. However, across the road at the Guinness Hopstore you can follow the brewing process from growing of the barley to kegging with a well presented exhibition and audio visual show and every visitor is entitled to a free pint of the black stuff in their bar. The souvenir shop mystified us as the cheaper items were locked in cabinets whilst the expensive ones were on open display!

Next stop was `Dublinia' in the old part of the city for a self guided audio tour of medieval Dublin followed by a visit to Christ Church Cathedral and up St Michael's Tower for a panoramic view of the city. Well, it would have been if it hadn't started raining! We also visited Trinity College to see the famous Book Of Kells, though we thought £2.50 to view only one page was a bit excessive. On famous O'Connell Street the souvenir shops and fast food restaurants mingled with the outstanding architecture of the Post Office and statues down the central reservation. At night there is only one place to go in Dublin - the trendy cosmopolitan Temple Bar area. There were Italian and Spanish restaurants a plenty, but we wanted traditional Irish fare, so dined on Irish stew and boxty (similar to pancake) at Gallagher's Boxty House.

Leaving Dublin we headed south through the Wicklow Mountains. En route we stopped to see Powerscourt Waterfall - the highest in Ireland - which despite the winding road to get there was worth the journey. We had a photo stop at The Meeting Of The Waters in Co.Wexford. Here the Avonmore and Avonberg rivers meet to form the Avoca river in a setting of sylvan beauty. A 5 km detour brought us to the village of Avoca where the TV programme Ballykissangel is filmed, though being Good Friday Fitzgeralds pub was closed. We were told up to 15 coaches visit Avoca during the summer months - I bet the village store couldn't believe their luck when the producers decided to film there! Onwards to Waterford we were too late for a guided tour of the crystal factory, but we did stare in wonder at the chandeliers in their shop. We spent the night in a lovely hotel in Dungarvan right on the beach and with its own leisure complex and bowling alley.

Next day was bright and sunny as we continued along the coast stopping at the fishing village of Youghal (pronounced yawl) to view the harbour and clock tower which straddles the main road. Crossing into Co.Cork we visited the Jameson Heritage Centre in Midleton to discover the story of Irish whiskey, see the world's largest pot still and take a tipple. By mid afternoon we arrived in Blarney with one aim in mind - to kiss the Blarney Stone! This involves climbing up the keep, lying on your back, gripping two iron bars and extending your head backwards to kiss the awkwardly placed stone. A most bizarre and unhygienic practice, but a must on the tourist trail!

Besides the castle there are also pretty gardens with areas called `druids cave', `fairy glade' and `witches stone'. It was a short drive into the city of Cork and, after several laps of the one way system, we found Shandon Tower. Attached to the Church Of St Ann, the tower was built in 1750 and houses a chime of eight bells which visitors are allowed, and even encouraged, to ring. So, after climbing up to the parapet for views of the city, Helen and I played `Amazing Grace' and `Auld Lang Syne' for the whole of Cork to hear! Music was of course, provided! We just made it to Cork City Gaol in time for last admissions. This is a fascinating insight into 19th century prison life and visitors are allowed to walk into the cells. As dusk fell over the River Shannon we headed north west to Killarney.

Helen and I agreed the next day was the highlight of our holiday - the famous scenic drive around the Ring Of Kerry. We set off around 1 1.00 am having been told the route would take us 3-4 hours depending on photo stops. It was Easter Sunday, yet we hardly passed another vehicle! Taking the anticlockwise route we first came to Dingle Bay - home of Fungi the dolphin and location for the film Far And Away. We detoured from the N70 road to visit the Skellig Experience on Valentia Island. The Skelligs are two rocks lying eight miles out to sea and the tourist attraction tells the story of the monastery that was once built there as well as the bird life and history of the lighthouse.

 Leaving the car park we spotted a sign for the `Ring Of Valentia' and decided to follow that route. It took us down narrow winding roads (no more than mud tracks) and led us to a shrine, slate quarry and spectacular scenery with white washed cottages. We were amazed that people live in such a remote place! Returning across the bridge we rejoined the well signposted Ring Of Kerry and headed to Waterville for a stroll on the beach. Next stop was Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell - Ireland's most prominent lawyer, civil rights activist, politician and statesman.

Further on we saw a sign for Staigue Fort and decided to leave the main road once again. Despite being a listed monument, sheep roamed around the stone fort and visitors were trusted to leave their 50p admission fee in a box attached to the gate! By the time we reached Ladies View - said to be one of the most scenic views on the Ring Of Kerry - it was getting dark and we had already taken far too many photos! Nine hours after setting off we were back at our hotel exhausted, but with our minds full of wonderful scenery.

After a leisurely breakfast we drove to Tralee and found the tourist information office, where we overheard a girl telling visitors what they could do if the attractions were open! The main street was decorated with bunting, but despite being Easter Monday the town seemed very quiet. We visited the `Kerry The Kingdom' attraction comprising three sections: a multi-image audio visual presentation on Kerry's spectacular scenery, an exhibition on Kerry's history from 5,000 BC and a `time travel' ride to experience the sights and smells of an Irish medieval town. Since Blennerville Windmill - the largest working mill in Ireland - was only one mile away we stopped there for yet another audio visual show and to grind some flour. Once again it was quiet and we were the only visitors.

Leaving Tralee we stopped for lunch at Europe's most westerly McDonalds - the busiest place on our whole tour! We were hoping to spend our last evening at a medieval banquet at Bunratty Castle in Co.Clare, but arrived to discover the Americans had booked every place. So, onwards to our overnight accommodation in Limerick.

We returned to Bunratty the following morning and spent a couple of hours exploring the folk park, including blacksmith's forge, farmhouses, a village street and schoolhouse, as well as the impressive castle. Seven days and 13 counties later (including Tipperary which we all know is a long way!) we were back in Dun Laoghaire for our return sailing. I'm glad we opted to take the car over instead of taking an organised tour as it enabled us to get off the beaten track and discover at least a part of the real Ireland.

First published in VISA issue 25 (summer 1997)