To most people Bangladesh conjures up thoughts of flooding, disease and death. It generally only makes the news in Britain when extremely inclement weather hits it hard; typhoon or monsoon; and flooding brings widespread loss of life, or if an overloaded boat capsizes leading to a large death toll. Why would anyone wish to go there?
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| Fishermen |
If you are after history, you’ll be disappointed. Wildlife, there’s some. Bengal tigers in the Sunderbans for instance, though almost impossible to find (they’re more likely to find you!) The weather can be very pleasant from October to February, the best time to visit, but not really a justification for flying so far. So why go?
That’s easy; the people.
My main memory of Bangladesh is of smiling faces, often en masse, even in Dhaka, the capital. The journey started on the Rocket; a paddle steamer (as used by Michael Palin at the end of his recent Himalayan trip) that most certainly does not live up to its name. A very gentle form of travel, and a great chance to sample river life.
The final destination, after 24 hours, was Mongla (close to the Sunderbans, but no tigers) and our first chance to be surrounded by smiles as three of us wandered around town. With evening entertainment at a premium, we took in a film and the local fleapit (not exaggeration). A Banglawood movie! Suggestive movements, fully clothed and farcical chases. The scratches hinted at overuse.
The return to Dhaka was by bus; a chance to turn prematurely grey as the driver on the second leg was obviously in a hurry. After a mad dash from Dhaka bus station to the main railway station on a convoy of cyclo-rickshaws (think low tech The Italian Job), we caught the overnight train to Chittagong. We bagged the two lower bunks in a four bunk carriage, then an ageing bearded cleric arrived. He was most surprised at having to use the upper bunk. I was equally surprised when he pulled out a mobile phone from his cloak and then started a long conversation whilst lying relaxed on the top berth.
Chittagong is known mainly from its role in World War II; there is a large, well maintained cemetery containing Commonwealth victims of the conflict; but has recently become famous for its ship breaking yard. A nearby beach contains various ships, beached (what else), some in pieces, others largely intact.
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| Chittagong Ship Breaking Yard |
What makes this ‘yard’ unique is the method of destruction, by hand rather than machine. Nearby chandleries sell goodies salvaged from the vessels. An odd selection including numerous Russian barometers, toilet paper, and bizarrely, a large brass tuba. Who leaves a tuba on a ship about to be scrapped?
Another misconception about Bangladesh is that it is all low lying and little more than a river delta. East and south of Chittagong lies hill country (the highest point in Bangladesh is higher than Ben Nevis!) This region is largely peopled by non-Muslim, Mongoloid tribes.
Rangamata is situated astride a large lake created by a hydroelectric dam. Islands resulting from this are peopled by various hill tribes. We visited some, the pupils in the village school had obviously seen few Europeans judging by our welcome. To be allowed onto the lake an armed guard had to be hired from the Bangladesh Army. Insurgents threaten to kidnap tourists for a nice little earner (and plum posting) depending on your point of view. Bangladeshis visit Rangamata on holiday; many were keen to have a European in their holiday snaps – “me with large European” is a real coup apparently!
Further into hill country is Banderban. In this region the hill tribes live in basic villages, inevitably littered with young children. The highlight was a visit to the Sunday morning market. Pipe smoking Marma women are an unusual sight. This was followed by a trip along the local river, which almost turned into disaster as our boat started to sink mid-stream. Our guide, in the bow, had panicked when he realised he was sitting on an ants’ nest. This rocked the boat, literally!
The last few days were spent at Cox’s Bazaar, a seaside resort on the eastern shore of the Bay of Bengal. This is the Bangladeshi Blackpool; the place where the middle class from Dhaka go on holiday; but very low key in comparison. Beach attire differs from the near naked sunbathing found on British beaches, indeed for some ladies the only concession to the beach was a pair of sunglasses visible through the slit in their veil!
Bangladesh is one of the poorest countries on Earth, yet their welcome is one of the richest. As a general rule I find the poorer the people, the more generous the hospitality. Visit soon. Europeans may start visiting for winter sunshine; the hotel proprietors of Cox’s Bazaar hope this might happen, however, I think Bangladesh will require a makeover to entice fussy Germans or English lager louts…especially as it’s a largely dry country.
First published in VISA issue 62 (August 2005)
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