Sun, Snow and Headscarves

by Neil Harris

The road between Esfahán and Kashan is unremarkable, but it is the setting for one of the most sensitive sites in the world today. The first signs that this is not normal desert are the twin barrels of a 30mm anti-aircraft gun poking out of the stony ground. Further along the road more gun barrels become evident, then the sight of numerous watchtowers situated close to the road point to the location of Iran's infamous nuclear facility. Judging by the large mounds of spoil close by, the most sensitive areas of the plant are underground, but even so, it would seem that it is a relatively easy target should Israel or the Yanks choose to bomb it.

Esfahan

The impression of Iran fostered by the British media is of a country that hates the West and is ready to sponsor terrorism or worse. When travelling amongst the Iranians a completely different feeling is fostered, that they want to be friends with the West and, in particular, with visitors. It is hard to take photographs at times as the chances are someone will come up to talk. The assumption made is that western individuals who go to Iran are not great fans of their government, partly as many Iranians would appear to have little empathy with theirs.

Women who visit Iran are forced to cover all their hair with a headscarf and their bottom must also be behind, excuse the pun, a loose fitting jacket. All locals have to comply with these regulations, many wearing a chador, and there are dress police. Even in a coach or hotel this dress code has to be adhered to. 'No alcohol' is strictly enforced, but I understand it can be obtained by those in the know. Sharia law does not apply in Iran. So why go?
Persepolis and Esfahán were two of my ‘must see before I die’ destinations. I missed out on Iraq and Afghanistan, I was not going to miss out on Iran! Who knows what the future may bring. I’m very glad I did.

After a night in Tehran we headed north. It was mid-April and still cold and wet, spring should have arrived but was a month late...global warming! Towns in northern Iran can be extremely ugly, the sights few and far between. After spending the night at Zanjan, we headed across the mountains to Takab. At a small town called Dandi we had planned a comfort stop, but alas the teashop was closed. After Mohsen our guide asked around and we were invited into the Town Hall by the Mayor. Here we were treated to tea and offered cakes that had been brought to celebrate the birth of a child. Would this happen in England?

It got colder as we climbed to about 9000ft, the landscape became covered in white, and to our surprise packed snow on the road required the fitting of snow chains before descending slightly to Takht-I-Soleiman (Throne of Solomon), an important Zoroastrian site set around a thermal pool. The myth of Solomon was dreamed up to prevent its destruction by invaders. A nearby volcanic cone contains a feature known as Solomon’s Prison in its vent; this was climbed just as a mini-blizzard swept past. The joys of northern Iran in spring!

Hamadan Frieze

Takab, our night stop, gets my vote as ugliest town in the world. It even looked ugly under a covering of snow as we left the next morning. Hamadãn, built on the site of ancient Ecbatan, was more elegant despite every other building seeming to be a bank. The main square (it was round) contains a circular bronze frieze glorifying the revolution. I was looking at a prominent relief of Ayatollah Khomeni when a local came up. He asked “Deutsch?”. I replied “No, I’m English.” “Only Deutsch," he said as he pointed towards Khomeni’s face and added "shittenhousen", then strode off.

Nearby are the Ganjnameh Stone tablets, a kind of Iranian Rosetta Stone, carved into rock in the days of Darius. They contain the same cuneiform inscriptions in three languages, Farsi, Babylonian and Ilamid, which enabled scholars to decipher ancient Persian writings.
After returning to Tehran we flew south to Shiraz, named after a grape, or is it the other way round? Shiraz was very warm and sunny and is the gateway to Persepolis, Darius' city started c.500BC after he grabbed the Persian throne. It lies about an hour away by coach. Apart from a leaning tower on its castle, Shiraz is not that notable, although there are a few interesting mosques and a pleasant souk. We entered the site at Persepolis ahead of a large group of heavily clad schoolgirls who had lined up obediently outside awaiting entrance. Would that happen in Britain?

Persepolis

The site is vast, atop a huge base (built by the Babylonians, an honour apparently) and is entered via a monumental staircase, then through Xerxes' Gateway. So far so good. Alas, for me, it then disappoints, apart from the magnificent bas reliefs, the best being on the Apadana Staircase (although these are worth the trip alone). Buried and thus preserved under sand for almost 2000 years, they are exquisite. The detail is the best I've seen, beating the skill of the Egyptians at their height, but only made possible due to the excellent fine grained stone. To preserve these treasures they are covered by corrugated plastic in a rather makeshift way, which disfigures the whole site. The rest of the site has been cleared of the debris left when it was comprehensively sacked by Alexander the Great in 330BC, hence no fallen columns or large stone blocks. Compared to Leptis Magna, Karnak or Ephesus it lacks character and a feeling of what it originally looked like. The other highlight, on a cliff overlooking Persepolis, is the rock tombs of Artaxerses 2 and 3, but the view is uninspiring, although it is a good way of getting a feel for the vastness of the site.

The afternoon saw us going to Naqsh-E Rostam. Where? I was not aware of this site when I went to Iran but it was one of my highlights. Rock hewn tombs of various Persian kings, including Darius 1 and 2 and Xerxes 1, it compares favourably, on a much smaller scale, with the rock tombs of Petra. Whereas in Petra the tombs are lacking reliefs, these have elaborate carvings in attendance. How have the carvings survived two thousand years of weathering?
Next stop was Yazd, a long drive from Shiraz, famous for its badgirs (not burrowing animals but air conditioning towers of mud adobe) and also its qanats (a good Scrabble word). These are underground canals that pipe water from distant mountains to irrigate fields and supply water to the city. In conjunction with the badgirs they formed an early refrigeration system. Wind is harnessed by slits in the tower, this breeze is directed downwards through wet grass into an underground cavern that also has water from a qanat flowing through. It is cool in the 40C plus heat of summer, but I’m not sure about their role in the minus 10C cold of winter. This is all explained in the excellent Water Museum. Here the story of the men who keep the qanats flowing is told. Apparently their clothing consists of a white shroud in case they are buried alive and thus correctly dressed for death. Now that's forward planning!

Above ground the old part of Yazd is a maze of mud adobe dwellings, which surround the large Jameh (Friday) Mosque. Concrete table tennis tables adorn the squares in this maze, not a pretty sight. The other highlight of Yazd is the Amir Chakhmaq Complex, a three storey facade of sunken alcoves. Here I sat in the evening sun with two companions. A young girl came up and gave us a rose each, and later female students joined us for a talk, in excellent English, insisting on a group photo afterwards, a typical interaction with the Iranians.

Another long drive and we arrived in Esfahán. Built largely by Shah Abbas, its Imam Square is one of the largest in the world (Tiananmen Square is bigger). Sitting in a teahouse on a roof overlooking this square is a great way to watch the sun go down. The Ali Qapu Palace on the edge of the square was encased in scaffolding, but inside at the top is the highlight, the Quiet Room, where music would be played. Doesn’t sound much. The ceiling is made up of a series of ornate baffles that trap the echoes to give almost perfect acoustics.

In Esfahán shopping also features high on the to do list as local craftsmen sell a large range of beautifully made wares. The souk hides large courtyards, even a huge madrassah. I was invited in for a look see (but no photos please), one of the best I’ve visited. The Jameh Mosque is rather plain, but atmospheric and is more than worth the long walk from Imam Square, especially as the return journey can be taken through the souk. An enjoyable way to get lost. Esfahán is a place for lingering and wandering. The Karju Bridge must rank as the most beautiful bridge in the world when lit by the evening sun; it was built to serve both as a weir and palace for Shah Abbas. Downstream from this bridge a game of canoe volleyball was taking place, the women clad in wetsuits that conformed to the strict dress rules of Iran; a bizarre sight. On the last evening in Esfahán, we were fortunate enough to get to see the 'Ancient Sport'. Part aerobics, part religion, the male-only pastime takes place in a back street Zurkhaneh (House of Strength), a kind of gymnasium. The men swing clubs (up to 35kg), juggle and whirl, whilst chanting religious affirmations and ancient poetry. From Esfahán we drove past the nuclear facility to Kashan, where there are the Fin Gardens, another Shah Abbas project. Mountain water running alongside tree lined paths, various other water features and an ornate gazebo make for a tranquil and cool setting.

On the outskirts of Tehran we visited Ayatollah Khomeni's Mausoleum; think Stansted Airport terminal building with minarets; and the large Martyr's Cemetery. Here, buried with honour, are many of the young Iranians who died defending their country against the American-inspired Iraqi invasion of the 80s.

Before leaving there was time to photograph the large 'Down with the USA' mural painted on a building in Tehran. A sentiment many in Iran would agree with, as indeed would many in the UK.
Anyone thinking of going to Iran should do so. It's very safe, you will be welcomed as a guest and it overflows with history. One word of warning; if you are a vegetarian (I'm not), you will probably lose weight.

First published in VISA issue 75 (Oct 2007)