The Odd Neighbour

by Sally Branston

Much of Belgium looks a little rough around the edges: buildings are soot-blackened; roads potholed; metalwork rusty and paint peeling. So why do I spend a lot of time there? Well, for a start, petrol is cheaper than in the Netherlands where I live. Secondly, the Dutch haven't quite got the supermarket concept, so a trip to Carrefour at Liège is from time to time a necessity. And thirdly, it's a relief to get away from the acres of modern Dutch housing estates, with their concrete-box houses and their hard-landscaped gardens and box hedging, manicured to within an inch of its life.

Ghent

To illustrate this latter point, I'll tell you about something my art teacher said. I was trying to do a water colour from a photograph of an old, rusty, corrugated-iron shed in the Falkland Islands. The teacher asked me what it was and I told her it was a derelict farm building. "But what is it for?" she asked. "Nothing," I replied. "It's just abandoned. "You would never see such a thing in the Netherlands," she said. "We would knock it down immediately." Which explains the total absence of old buildings where I live.

A British friend told me about a visit from her Dutch neighbour to complain about the front flower bed. Flowers were creeping in a naturalistic manner out of the bed and over the edge of the driveway. "Cut them back where they belong immediately," she was told. "And while you're at it, you replaced your garage door two weeks ago and it hasn't been painted yet."
Belgium is in complete contrast. Forget the quaint tourist paradise of Brugge (Bruges) and think dirt, dereliction and dilapidation. That's Liège (Luik in Flemish). But at least it's interesting. The Christmas market offers the chance to taste food and drink from all over the French-speaking world and every Sunday, there's a massive market all along the banks of the River Maas. It was also the birthplace of Belgium's best-known author, Georges Simenon.

Further down the Maas or Meuse, you find the rather strange city of Dinant, birthplace of Adolphe Sax and a picturesque spot on the way over to France. A citadel perched on top of a cliff overlooks the river where you can take a boat trip or go kayaking.

Sundays in the town of Tongeren, there is an enormous antiques market which takes up most of the town's streets until lunchtime. You can enjoy a Belgian waffle (gauffre) in the oldest inn in the oldest town in Belgium while you're there.

Bruges

Bruges is probably the favourite destination for British tourists and it is certainly pretty. And clean. And expensive. For a change, try its slightly less well known neighbour, Ghent (Gent). You can take a boat ride along the canal or visit one of the five Sunday markets. There's a famous painting to see in St Baaf's Cathedral - the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb - and lots of interesting Flemish architecture. If you're looking for somewhere old and typically Belgian to stay, a hotel with character rather than state of the art facilities, try the Gravensteen, although I wouldn't recommend trying to park anything bigger than a mini in the hotel car park.

Belgium is a country divided by language. In the Flemish areas, if you don't speak Dutch, try English rather than French. In the capital, French is best.

Don't drive unless absolutely forced to. Belgian drivers have to be amongst the worst in Europe. They have little idea what to do with roundabouts; will stop when you're least expecting them to; don't signal where they're going; drive very fast; and leave swerving across the traffic to exit the motorway until the last possible second. Brussels is confusingly signposted for visitors, so go by public transport if possible or at the very least, plan to leave your car in the hotel garage once you've arrived.

The Grand' Place is one of the most stunning sights in Europe and there always seems to be something going on. There are plenty of cafes in which to sit and have a beer, but the quality of both food and service will improve if you head out a few streets in almost any direction. Mussels are the thing to eat, washed down by any of a huge variety of Belgian beers, each of which comes served in its own special glass. If you don't like mussels, try a carbonnade, a delicious beef stew cooked in the aforementioned beer. The other local speciality is chips (with mayonnaise).

The battlefield at Waterloo is worth a visit if you're in the area, but probably not a special detour unless you're a military history buff. Climb to the top of the Butte du Lion to imagine the scene as it might have been or visit the Musée Wellington.

Carpet of Flowers, Grand' Place

At the end of April or beginning of May, try to time your visit to coincide with the annual opening of the Royal Greenhouses at Laeken. This has to be one of the "must-sees" of Europe for anyone with the slightest interest in either royalty or gardening. Ignore the huge queues - they move very quickly - and every step of the way is of interest. 

Every other year in August, see the Carpet of Flowers when the whole of the Grand' Place in Brussels is covered with an intricate design of begonias.Then have lunch in the enticingly named restaurant called "Sudden Death" (A La Mort Subite), named after a game and a well-known Belgian beer.

And finally, don't forget to look out for a sand-carving or ice-sculpture festival, according to the season. They are well worth the time spent. Happy holidays in Belgium!

First published in VISA issue 72 (Apr 2007)