I am very glad that I was just a passenger! Fortunately, our coach driver was familiar with the road, which had a variety of users. As well as normal private cars and coaches, there were convoys of bikers – welcome visitors in these parts – heroic cyclists and many test cars. The downhill stretches effectively tested brakes and, in some cases, the cars towed other vehicles in order to monitor their engine capacity. The cars’ distinctive features were disguised by graffiti-like scribblings to minimise industrial espionage.
We climbed above the tree line and watched the pines fade away below us.
Our first stop was at the Fuscher Lacke (2,262m) where we were met by local celebrities innkeeper Herbert Haslinger and his tame marmot, Morfi. Our guide regaled us with information. Some of the snow had a pinkish tinge, caused by sand blown from the Sahara Desert by the Föhn wind. The Pasterzen Glacier beneath the Grossglockner Mountain (3,798m) is shrinking alarmingly and climate change is a likely suspect.
Stunning vista followed stunning vista until we arrived at the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2,369m), a massive visitors’ centre with various restaurants, shops and attractions. All these facilities are essential for the huge numbers of tourists.
We did not have time to visit the Wilhelm Swarowski Observation Tower or Visitors’ Centre. Instead, we had a bite to eat then took photos of the glacier and the magnificent Grossglockner itself.
More marmots: these lucky animals must think that apples and bananas simply rain down on them from the skies. The master of the slopes, the ibex, is a more elusive creature, although we were lucky enough to spot one of the alpha males strutting through his domain.
A day of unrivalled scenery. In every sense – highly recommended!
First Published in VISA 111 (Oct 2013)
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