I suspect others who have visited this small Arab country will have had a similar experience to me, as it has only recently opened up to tourists since a progressive Western-educated sultan came to power and built roads, schools and hospitals. Oman didn't even have electricity until around 40 years ago - but they had oil, so once this was tapped the country's infrastructure grew at an enormous rate. The Omani people were subsequently provided with free education and healthcare to help them make their country prosper in the modern world.
Arrival at the United Arab Emirates (UAE) border crossing involved a lengthy wait in a reception area before going through Oman customs. But it was a pleasant surprise to find it full of wonderfully ornate displays of Arab art and artefacts, including portraits of some important sheiks and sultans.
We were surprised to discover that the landscape on the Oman side of the border differed significantly to the UAE side, with quite spectacular mountain roads encircling the coastline, occasionally with sheer drops to the sea. The boat which was to take us on our cruise through the fjords departed from Khasab, a port on the southern tip of the Strait of Hormuz and local capital of the Musandam peninsula.
When we arrived at the cruise boat or dhow, there were no other tourists except ourselves and four people who'd shared our minibus. We stepped on board onto what resembled a vast magic carpet with the decks and walls adorned with a rich variety of rugs, carpets and cushions which made us feel we were back in the days of The Arabian Nights.
Oman is situated extremely close to Iran. The two countries are friendly and there is a lot of smuggling going on between them. Western contraband, such as American cigarettes, has been smuggled into Iran on a daily basis for many years and the authorities ignore the practice, so long as drugs and weapons aren't involved. We saw some of these smugglers dashing across the gulf in speedboats covered with plastic covers. We were told by the guide that the Omanis often offer goats as payment for goods and that some of the speedboats subsequently make their journey to Iran loaded up with live goats. A bus load of western tourists eventually joined us on the dhow and their lively company was rather welcome as we sailed off into unknown waters.
through the fjords was awe-inspiring. Whilst Norwegian fjords are covered with green forests and vegetation the Oman fjords are completely bare, providing an opportunity to observe the volcanic rock patterns, ridges and jagged contours in multiple shades of red and brown which sweep majestically and quite violently down to the sea. This barrenness is the result of Oman being one of the hottest countries in the world.
At one stage some small fishing villages were visible on the shoreline but we were told that cruise boats were not allowed to sail close enough to take photographs. This was accepted by all as there was a constant awareness that we were merely guests in a monarchy governed under Islamic sharia law.
In the middle of the fjords is a landmark called Telegraph Island where a telegraph cable was laid by the British in 1864 to connect Britain with India. Dolphins now congregate around this area and we watched them diving and jumping playfully into the air. We also enjoyed the spectacle of four of them racing alongside our boat for several miles, an activity which dolphins enjoy as a sport.
During the trip we were served sweet tea and a type of scented coffee served with sticky dates and fruit. The boat stopped for lunch and there was an opportunity to go swimming. Not wanting to leave our bags unattended we took turns and my wife was the first to jump into the water, as she never misses an opportunity to swim. It was a while before anyone joined her, though, due to caution about sharks or jelly-fish, despite the guide having assured us that there weren't any. A second person eventually jumped in, followed by a young couple, but others seemed content to stay on board, basking in the sun and taking photographs. At the next stopping place the sea was full of multi-coloured fish.
Although I had no snorkel I'd brought some goggles along and dived in to observe the fishes more closely, but on opening my eyes there was just clear water. I thought I'd frightened them away, but this wasn't the case. My wife had thrown bread from her sandwiches into the water near my flapping feet and a shoal of tropical fish in all shapes, sizes and vivid colours were eagerly chomping away on it behind me.
On turning round I found my head swamped amid fish and bread crumbs and I remained there transfixed and fascinated until I finally needed to come up for air. On surfacing I became aware of applause and looked up to see a large group of onlookers merrily cheering me on. They'd apparently been watching my antics and joined in with the bread-throwing to see how long I would stay under the water.
On the way back to the port we observed more smugglers boats speeding along but this time they seemed to blend in admirably with the scenery, all part of the daily routine of this picturesque corner of the gulf. We stepped off the boat exhilarated, suntanned and happy to return to the comforts of Dubai. So far as day trips go it was a most memorable one and would certainly qualify for a point if I were to start my own 'Country challenge' list.
First Published in Visa 113 (Feb 2014)
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