The Black Hills of Dakota

By David Gourley

Ranger in Laramie / Wall Drug

This trip overlapped two previous visits to the States. Fifty years ago we travelled by Greyhound Coach right across America, from New York to San Francisco, passing through the States of Wyoming and Utah. Thirty years ago we did a tour of the Southwest USA which coincided with the final part of this trip.

We tacked on to the start of the trip an extra night in Denver. We were glad that we did, for we arrived quite late in the evening and there was an early morning departure the next day. Furthermore we got to see downtown Denver. No-one else on our tour did for we were lodged in Cherry Creek, a mile or so away. This is a somewhat soulless area though it's no doubt a great place if, unlike me, one loves shopping, since it boasts of being the premier shopping destination in Denver.

We made our way into the downtown using a local bus. We were to find during our trip that the people we encountered were on the whole very friendly, more so in fact than is the norm back home. Our British accents - of course we think it is the Americans, not us, who have accents! - might  attract attention with people interested to know where else in the States we had been. We got a taste of this friendliness on this our first excursion. The charming young lady driving the bus insisted, on reaching the terminus, on walking us to the nearby stop where one boards another bus for the mall ride, through the heart of the downtown to Union Station. She then talked us through our return journey, where to get on and where to get off.

The mall ride is free. We were also to benefit from free public transport in Jackson, Wyoming and in Salt Lake City. I don't think one is going to find that anywhere back home. Actually, being of a certain age, we do get free bus travel but that's not what I am talking about.   Historic Union Station is still used by a few trains, but its prime purpose these days is as a centre for restaurants and small shops. We walked back along the route of the mall ride, finishing at the Colorado State Capitol. This became the second such capitol that we have visited; we had looked round its Utah counterpart, in Salt Lake City, back in 1968 and did so again this time.

The people in the Capitol were friendly and welcoming. We got a free guided tour conducted by John, something of a character who, following his retirement from his job with the State, had rebelled against past conformity by growing a ponytail and wearing earrings. Hmm.... At least the ponytail had gone. The tour involved a lot of stair climbing, rewarded by fine views from the top. Denver is the “mile high city” and there is a marker in the Capitol showing where this height is actually reached. The timing was good for, on finishing our tour, we were able to watch the annual display of square dancing that takes place in the Capitol. The dancers were all elderly folk (around our age!) dressed in colourful costume. Square dancing is Colorado's state dance. I knew that there are state birds, mottos and so on, but it was news to me that there are state dances. Following the guidance we had been given, we found our way back to our hotel without trouble.

Our drive the next day was to Rapid City in South Dakota, where we were to stay two nights. En route we passed through Wyoming and its capital Cheyenne. This had been one of our stops during our Greyhound journey, a charming small town which still had something of a Wild West feel. I recalled seeing “Big Boy”, the world's largest steam locomotive, and a statue of Esther Hobart Morris, a pioneer in women's suffrage. In 2018 Britain is celebrating 100 years of (some) women getting the vote but Wyoming got there a lot sooner, in 1869 becoming the first place anywhere to enfranchise women. I wondered if I'd see either of these attractions this time, for our tour brochure had promised a stop in Cheyenne. I was to be disappointed, for we by-passed the downtown.

There was a stop of sorts in Cheyenne, at the local Wallmart so we could purchase a picnic lunch. These huge supermarkets seemed to me to be rather soulless places. Our guide Nilani conceded that many in the States don't love this chain, as they think it has driven many smaller shops out of business. We were to experience another Wallmart later on in our tour. That one had an unsmiling security guard who stopped anyone with a rucksack going in to the store; not a concern about security, but a fear that people would use rucksacks for stolen goods. Viewing one’s customers as potential thieves doesn't strike me as a good attitude towards them.

Our lunchtime stop was at Fort Laramie, a one-time military post and now a National Historic Site. I am interested in US history and can rattle off the names of presidents in the twentieth century, but know little about the expansion of the country from the original 13 states right across the North American continent. Fort Laramie was a vital stopping point for pioneers working their way westwards along the Oregon Trail, especially before  the first Transcontinental Railroad opened in 1869. It is also  where  a treaty was signed with Native American tribes, acknowledging their territorial rights. Unhappily it was not long before the treaty broke down as a result of gold being discovered in the Black Hills. When Nilani contacted us by phone in Denver, prior to the start of the tour, I had wondered, given her unusual name, whether she was a Native American. She is a Canadian who has lived most of her life in the States, having married an American from whom she is now divorced. But she clearly had great interest in, and empathy with, Native Americans.  She told us that, whilst they are invariably welcoming to tourists, most inwardly still resent the way their tribes have been treated over the years. In Monument Valley we had, as is customary, a Navajo guide. They like to be known as Native Americans, not Indians: “Indians live in India.”

It did not escape notice that the chemistry between Nilani and our driver was not good. He took a wrong turning on the way to Fort Laramie. No- one minded as it was a more scenic route and we were not seriously delayed. Nevertheless it was clear that he did not know his way. He was relying on his sat-nav, but there are times when old-fashioned map reading skills are to be preferred. I was able to help, as I invariably take maps on holiday and had two covering the area of our tour which were more detailed than the map that Nilani had.  I was amazed when, after our fairly long break at Fort Laramie, our driver again didn't know which way to go. I would have expected him to have spent his free time making sure that he did know. Again my map was needed. My guess is that Nilani was getting pretty fed up with having to do some of the navigating, a task that the driver could reasonably be expected to do for himself.

We crossed the border into South Dakota so I got to see the Black Hills at last. The next day we headed to the Mount Rushmore National Monument, the famous sculpture depicting the heads of four presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt (Teddy, not Franklin). Here another disappointment - in a tour that overall was very far from disappointing - awaited. We had been complacent about the weather, which in Denver had been well over 80°F. Here, much further north, it was considerably lower. Worse, it was raining and there was poor  visibility, so much so that we couldn't actually see the sculpture. I just about managed to discern, through the mist, the mountain itself.

I was wondering whether we were jinxed when it comes to seeing heads carved out of mountainsides: a number of years previously, cloud had suddenly descended in New Hampshire, preventing us from seeing the Old Man of the Mountain. However, just a few miles away, in weather that was now bright and sunny, we saw the Crazy Horse Monument, also carved out of a mountain and depicting the Native American chief of that name. This is still work in progress, with a large educational/cultural centre also planned. It reflects the view that Native Americans also deserve a mountainside monument.

We made our way to Wall Drug. That doesn't sound good in British English, but in American English the meaning is wholly innocent. It is located in the small town of Wall, gateway to the Badlands.  It  is something of a South Dakota institution. Numerous billboards along the approaching highway advertise it. The story is that, after its foundation in 1931, the store didn't do well at first, located as the owners saw it “in the middle of nowhere”. Then they had the bright idea of erecting billboards along the nearby highway offering free iced water to people on their way to and from Mount Rushmore. It has thrived ever since.  The  store includes a characterful, if a little chaotic, restaurant. I had a buffalo burger.

We then visited the first of our national parks, the South Dakota Badlands. All such visits were very thoughtfully organized with plenty of stops. Bafflingly Nilani also put on a video of the Badlands. We ignored this: no doubt she meant well, but why look at a video when one can see the real thing? The Badlands are magnificent, a stunning area of buttes (isolated hills with steep, often vertical sides and a small, relatively flat top), pinnacles, and spires blended with the largest undisturbed mixed grass prairie in the United States. This was a wonderful finish to the day.

We headed the next day out of South Dakota, first stopping in Deadwood. This picturesque town retains something of a Wild West atmosphere. The visitor might be surprised that there are several casinos. I have something of an aversion to casinos, but consoled myself with the knowledge that they are owned by Native Americans, bringing valuable revenue to their tribes. We had lunch in a charming old-fashioned inn, complete with sawdust on the floor, though our meal, Mexican tacos, might not have been on offer in Calamity's day.

While in Deadwood, we took an optional tour in a vintage bus driven by our entertaining local guide, Dave. This took us up a nearby hill from which there was a fine view over the town. The real point though was to visit Mount Moriah Cemetery. Here Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok are buried alongside each other. The visitor is told to forget about Doris Day as the life of the real Calamity was somewhat different to that depicted in the film. For starters she didn't marry Bill. They were friends but she ended up marrying someone else, the name on her grave being “Calamity Jane [aka] Mrs M E Burke”.

We criss-crossed the border into or out of Wyoming several times during our trip. We now headed back into that state where we stopped at Devil's Tower, a huge and isolated butte and a striking sight. When we went to reboard our bus a surprise awaited: a new bus and a new driver. No explanation was given, but we surmised that Nilani had complained to the tour company. Sympathy for the underdog kicked in as our departing driver looked forlorn. Our new driver never had any trouble finding his way and he and Nilani got on like a house on fire. We stayed overnight in Sheridan, a few miles further on.•

To be continued
First published in VISA 138 (April 2018)

Baltimore Break

By Maxine Bates

In October my partner and I spent four nights in Baltimore. Having booked flights and accommodation only 48 hours prior to travel there wasn’t much time for research so we ‘winged it’ upon arrival in the city. Met at passport control with an incredulous “But nobody comes on vacation to Baltimore!”, we did wonder if we’d made the right choice of destination but managed to fill our time with a range of sightseeing in unseasonably warm sunshine. Unfortunately the harbour cruises had stopped for winter and it was out of season for any baseball games.

The city is set around the pretty inner harbour and the main tourist attraction are the four historic ships docked in various parts of that harbour. We bought a combined ticket to visit all four, so explored two on one day and the remaining two ships on another day. I found the Torsk submarine the most interesting, especially the cramped sleeping quarters with bunks directly above the torpedoes! We timed our visit to the US coast guard cutter Taney to coincide with their daily engine room tour at 3pm which was almost a private tour. In fact most of the ships we had to ourselves. The others were entirely different; the wooden USS Constellation with its cannon deck and the lightship Chesapeake. Boats of a totally different type were the dragon shaped pedalos for hire in the harbour!

Also around the harbour is the World Trade Center. The tallest building in the city and the tallest pentagonal building in the world even though only 27 floors high. Tickets to go up in the elevator to the observation deck were reasonably priced and there are plentiful information panels about the city, buildings and famous people. Baltimore apparently had several pioneers in the medical field. Sadly the names of the 58 Marylanders who were aboard one of the planes that hit the other World Trade Center on 9/11 are etched on one of the windows. A fragment of steel from the New York ‘twin towers’ is also on display. Across the harbour is Fort McHenry, the birthplace of ‘The Star-Spangled Banner’. The fort is now home to an exhibition, cannons and magazine store. We started with a film show in the entrance building; at the end, the screen lifts to reveal a view of the fort and everyone stood for the national anthem. The fort was where the words to the anthem were written by Francis Scott Key, inspired by the flag flying over the fort after intense British naval bombardment during the war of 1812. The flag itself was sewn at the now-named Banner House in the city by Mary Young Pickersgill - another interesting location to visit.

We came across the Washington Monument by chance, but what a great find - the first tribute to the first US President, built in 1815 and a gift from the state of Maryland. There was a small admission charge to climb the 227 steps but they only accepted payment by card which neither of us had with us at the time. We were kindly let in for free but left some dollars in their donation box. 227 steps up also meant 227 steps down, but there were markers on the walls telling you how far there was to go. We also visited the grave of Edgar Allan Poe (spot the error in dates carved on the stone!); the indoor Lexington Market that has been in existence since 1782; the Walters Art Gallery (mostly because it was free and had air conditioning on a hot day but also quite interesting) and the quaint Fells Point area full of interesting shops, bars and restaurants. For nightlife there’s the trendy Power Plant district, and famous restaurants such as the Hard Rock Café and Bubba Gump, or why not sip a drink in the lobby bar of the historic Lord Baltimore Hotel accompanied by their piano player?

I’d not visited the USA for four years and was quite shocked at how the current exchange rate made most things seem expensive and how waiting staff now expect a 20% tip. Not the cheapest destination to visit, but a pleasant one. Washington DC is only an hour away by train but that could be another review in itself…•

First published in VISA 138 (April 2018)

Building a Nation

By Helen Matthews

Doha

The local newspaper gives a count of the number of days the ‘siege’ has lasted, but in truth Doha does not feel like a city under siege. It is far more of a city under construction. Everywhere are building sites, and the road layout can change overnight.

The so-called ‘siege’ began during Ramadan, when Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Bahrain, and Egypt cut off diplomatic relations and imposed trade and travel bans, citing allegations of support for terrorism.  Qatar now imports vegetables from Iran and dairy products from Turkey. But aside from the supermarket translations from Turkish, the only noticeable signs of the siege, or more properly, blockade, are the images of the Emir which are now sported on buildings and in car windows.

Meanwhile, the building work continues.  There are stadiums to be built in readiness for the 2022 World Cup, and the futuristic National Museum of Qatar is taking shape.  Colleagues who work there tell me that the road layout can change overnight, causing traffic chaos in the morning.

Museum of Islamic Art

For now, visitors can enjoy the new Museum of Islamic Art: a shining white fortress on an artificial island by the old harbour. The galleries are ranged on three sides round a central atrium, with windows on the fourth side giving views of the skyscrapers in the West Bay area.  There are two floors of permanent exhibitions. On floor two, the galleries are organised thematically: introduction; the Figure in Art, Calligraphy, Patterns in Art and Science in Art. There are some beautiful items, carefully displayed, and it helps to pace yourself. The ground floor café has  ample seating and plenty of opportunities to enjoy the view, if you need a break. Back on the third floor, exhibits are  grouped chronologically and geographically:  Early Islamic Art (pre 12^th century); Iran and  Central Asia (12^th -14^th centuries); Egypt and Syria (12^th-14^th centuries); Egypt and Syria (14^th and 15^th centuries); Iran and Central Asia (15^th -16^th centuries); Iran (16^th-19^th century); India and Turkey (16^th -19^th century.)

The exhibits are fascinating, but overall there is little sense of provenance. Unlike most museums where items from particular sites are grouped together, many are not even identified as from a particular country, let along region or city. The overall sense is one of a ‘greatest hits’ album.

If you can bear to walk along the Corniche in the heat past the dhow harbour to the Pearl Monument, and cross the road (no easy feat – it can take 20 minutes for the lights to change) you can reach Souq Waqif, a restored traditional market and popular place for tourists to buy souvenirs. There are also restaurants and cafes to suit all tastes.

Beyond the Souq is the Msheireb District. This was one of the earliest parts of the city to be developed, with the first bank, the first pharmacy and the first hotel. The area declined as the rest of the city developed but it is now being redeveloped on environmentally friendly lines with pedestrian friendly streets and cycleways. Four of the traditional houses have been restored to form the Msheireb Museums. Together, the houses provide a much needed local counterpoint to the pan-Islamic collections on the Museum of Islamic Art. 

Each house has a different theme, but the displays are very modern and interactive. The Bin Jelmood House tells the history of slavery from the ancient world to modern slavery. Company House was once the headquarters of Qatar’s first oil company. Initially Qatar’s main export industry was pearl fishing. Fortunately the decline in fortunes brought about by the introduction of cultured pearls was soon followed by the discovery of oil. The displays and a short film tell the story of the oil company and its workers. Radwani House takes a more personal approach, providing an insight into the transformation of domestic family life.

Mohammed Bin Jassim House tells the history of Doha and the Msheireb district in particular, including visions for the future.

Despite the siege, Doha is flourishing.  It would be good to come back when it’s finished.

First published in VISA 136 (Dec 2017)

Christmas in Lille

By Elizabeth Johnstone

I had only ever seen Lille out of the Eurostar window en route to Brussels but, in December 2017, we had a great overnight break at this unfairly neglected destination. My train into London runs into Kings Cross Station from where it is a few steps across the road to St Pancras International. The Eurostar train left on time at 10.58 and, less than an hour and a half later, we arrived at our destination.

Lille is the fourth largest urban conglomeration in France, with an ultra- modern Metro system. It operates the “Crit-air” scheme where your car requires a “clean air” sticker. Its charm for the visitor, however, lies in the historic old town. From the Lille Europe Station and the Euralille commercial centre opposite, it is only about 10 minutes walk to “Vieux Lille”. We stayed at the Ibis Styles Lille Grand Place, booking direct with Eurostar for rail tickets and then with Booking.com for accommodation (not forgetting to go in through Topcashback.com!)

The hotel was clean, cosy and convenient for the sights. Our plan was to meet up with a Belgian Mensan friend for whom Lille in France was nearer than Brussels in Belgium. We had a pleasant stroll round, as I took photos of shop displays and building façades. One negative was the number of homeless people and beggars, often with suspiciously drowsy small children lying with them. After a cup of tea, we parted ways and my husband and I braved the Christmas Market. It is enormous, with 80-odd stalls. I’d read mixed reviews online, but I found it cheerful and seasonal.

 We regrouped at the hotel then set out for pre-prandial refreshment and a bite to eat. The plan was to head for the rue de Gand which is effectively the restaurant street. Unfortunately, everyone else in Lille had the same idea. We fought our way into a lively local bar Au Gand'Brinus where the barman gave me advice about speciality brews. Note: do not talk about Belgian beers in Flanders. We then over-optimistically set off down the street for dinner, only to be told “désolé” time and again.

Eventually, our noses pressed against the windowpanes of the Estaminet de Gand, we saw two girls preparing to leave and we pounced. It was a typically small and crowded restaurant featuring local cuisine. My husband had the hearty beef casserole carbonnades flamandes and I had a “welsh” which is a variation of a Welsh rarebit made with industrial quantities of pungent local cheese. A chicory-flavoured crème brûlée rounded off my sweet-toothed husband’s meal. Perfectly pleasant, but next time I would definitely book a restaurant of my choice.

As we walked back to the hotel, it started to rain.  By the next morning,  rain had turned to snow, and it was not too pleasant walking to the station. We intended to spend time in the Euralille shopping centre before crossing the plaza to the Gare Lille Europe.

The jovial security guard at Carrefour was used to travellers like us walking round with half-empty suitcases and “locked” ours shut with a plastic tag which the checkout lady had to open with scissors. French hypermarkets are not normally open on Sundays, except for the month of December, something to bear in mind if your city break involves food shopping. And it must, if you go to France!

The Eurostar was 10 minutes late, but the real problems arose back in London where numerous trains in and out of Kings Cross were cancelled or delayed because of the heavy snow. We got off lightly compared to air travellers and motorists. As a matter of principle, I made a small “delay repay” claim. I hope all readers do so, too! 

Lille was a great destination. I look forward to my Flemish beer on a summer evening in the old town before heading off to my (reserved!) table in the rue de Gand.

First published in VISA 137 (February 2018)